carb problem?

Steve Northrop blackgpz at
Wed Aug 1 15:57:53 PDT 2007

Which bike has the problem Jerry? Is it the new bike or the old bike? You 
know your old bike is mechanically sound so if you put the carbs on and it 
doesn't run, you know it's the carbs. If it's the new bike, you really don't 
have any idea what shape the engine is in mechanically. Jet/needle and pilot 
wise, the carbs can be off quite a ways and the engine will run better than 
you describe. I would suggest an inspection of the valve train including a 
valve adjustment, checking cam chain tension and cam timing followed by a 
compression check before chasing the carbs around anymore. As for the 
missing and backfire, my experience with this bike is that once you foul a 
plug, it's done. You can't clean it, you must replace it.

Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Clair" <darkclarity2k at>
To: "Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion" <gpzlist at>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: carb problem?

> missing and back fire. sticking float?
> Steve Northrop <blackgpz at> wrote:     That's correct. 
> Several of us are running the FP Stage 3 kit with pods and  performance 
> exhaust with good results.
> Steve in Western NY
> '96 GPZ1100
> '02 Daytona 955i
> "You Can't Fix  Stupid", Ron White
>    ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From:    David    Beard
>   To: Jerry Clair
>   Cc: Steve Northrop
>   Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 4:36 PM
>   Subject: Re: carb problem?
> Jerry - Yep, but remember that this Stage 1 jet kit will do you    no good 
> if you are putting on Pod filters.
> Steve - Jerry has pod    filters on order (should show up any day) so I 
> recommended he order the    Factory Pro Stage 3. That's what you are 
> running, right?
> Dave    B
> Jerry Clair wrote:    look what I found.  (It's a stage 1)
> Steve      Northrop <blackgpz at>      wrote: 
> No, the slide moves up and down with engine load. the needle is 
> attached to the slide. When the slide moves up a narrower part of the 
> needle tip is in the fixed orifice, allowing more fuel. When the slide 
> moves down, a fatter part of the needle tip goes into the orifice, 
> lessening fuel flow. Changing the position of the clip in the needle 
> changes the relative position of the needle tip in the fixed orifice. E.g. 
> if you put the clip in the lowest (#5) groove, the needle would be higher 
> in the fixed orifice at the same slide height. This would give you a 
> richer mid-range. The reason for the clip/washer thickness to duplicate 
> the "nailhead" of the stock needle is to prevent vertical movement of the 
> needle after installation in the slide. Try putting the Dynojet needle in 
> the slide with just a clip on it, put the
> white plastic retainer on top of        it and hold the retainer down with 
> your finger. Now grab the needle below        and try and move it up and 
> down. It will move quite a bit. The extra        clip/washers act as 
> spacers to prevent this. If the needle is free to move        up and down 
> in the slide like this, it kind of negates the precise        placement of 
> the clip in a groove because it's able to jump around all        over the 
> place.
>       Steve in Western NY
> '96 GPZ1100
> '02 Daytona 955i
> "You Can't        Fix Stupid", Ron White
>                -----          Original Message ----- 
>         From:          Jerry Clair
>         To:          Steve Northrop
>         Sent:          Sunday, July 22, 2007 10:44 AM
>         Subject:          Re: carb problem?
> Boy am I learning alot!
> the nail head is what sets up          the range of travel of the needle?
> Steve Northrop <blackgpz at>          wrote:          A 
> washer and another clip, three washers, whatever. You must duplicate 
> the
> thickness of the nailhead on the stock needle or it will            rattle 
> up and down
> in the slide. Dynojet jet numbers are stamped            on the top of the 
> jet, Keihin
> jet numbers are stamped on the side.            Dynojet says to use their 
> #104 main
> jets for a stock exhaust, the            #108's for an aftermarket 
> exhaust.
> Steve in Western NY
> '96            GPZ1100
> '02 Daytona 955i
> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron            White
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jameson, George            E."
> To: "Jerry Clair"            ; "Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion"
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 7:13            AM
> Subject: RE: carb problem?
>> Try looking at this,            these are the same carbs you have. Some 
>> of the
>> pictures are            missing and the airbox instructions pertain to 
>> this bike .
>> But            they are Keihin 36's. This kit manufacturer uses a total 
>> of            three
>> washers and 'e' clip position to position needles            vertically. 
>> I don't
>> know about 2 clips either. Break out your            reading glasses 
>> keihin jet
>> sizes are stamped on the            jet.
>>            -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jerry Clair [mailto:darkclarity2k at]
>>            Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:22 PM
>> To: Kawasaki GPZ1100            discussion
>> Subject: Re: carb problem?
>> 2 clips?            WTF. How do I know if I have a 108?
>> Pilots are at 2            1/2
>> Steve Northrop wrote:            The baseline
>> installation is the clip in the second groove            from the top. 
>> There needs
>> to be a washer above the clip and            another clip in the first 
>> groove,
>> otherwise the white plastic            retainer won't hold the needle 
>> down tightly.
>> When replacing            the white plastic retainer, make sure the feet 
>> don't
>> cover the            slide lift hole in the bottom of the slide. The main 
>> jet
>>            should be a 108 and the pilot screws 2 1/2 turns out. Again, 
>> these            are
>> the baseline Dynojet installation            instructions.
>> Steve in Western NY
>> '96            GPZ1100
>> '02 Daytona 955i
>> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron            White
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: Jerry            Clair
>> To: Steve Northrop
>> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007            4:29 PM
>> Subject: Re: carb problem?
>> The            clip is on the 3rd from the top. hmm, is that right?
>>            Steve Northrop wrote:
>> That's the            needle that dangles from the slide. You can see 
>> it's tapered
>>            at the end. The slide raises and lowers the needle relative to 
>> a            fixed
>> orifice depending on engine load. The main jet is below            the 
>> needle and
>> provides the fuel that is below the fixed            orifice. Whenever I 
>> have the
>> carbs off and the slides out, I            take a little crocus cloth
>> (very,very fine sandpaper) and            smooth out any rough spots,
>> especially on the "wings". Inside            the slide is a white plastic
>> retainer that just lifts out,            then the needle can come out. If 
>> the
>> needle has 'slittle            grooves at the top with an "e" clip in one 
>> of
>> them, a jet kit            has been installed. If the needle just has a 
>> nail
>> head, it's            stock.
>> Steve in Western NY
>> '96 GPZ1100
>>            '02 Daytona 955i
>> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
>>            ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: Jerry Clair
>> To: blackgpz at
>>            Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 3:27 PM
>> Subject: Re: carb            problem?
>> Ah! Master Steve,
>> The problem            is that I don't know WTF I have. Nor do I know
>> very much of            what I'm doing.
>> 1. But I sure can compare the springs from my            stocker to No.2.
>> When I pull the diaphram up & out (thats            the main Jet dangling
>> off the slide -right?)
>>            2. Shouldn't the slides be very smooth in operation?
>>            3. um, what else is down inside there?
>> blackgpz at            wrote: Jerry, did you say you
>> thought there was a Dynojet kit            installed? If
>> so, compare the diaphragm springs to the stock            ones. If 
>> they're
>> shorter
>> than stock they are NFG.            These kits are notorious for an 
>> off-idle
>> bog
>> if you            use their springs. Replacing with the stock springs
>> solves            the
>> problem.
>> Steve
>> -----            Original Message -----
>> From: Jerry Clair
>> Date:            Thursday, July 19, 2007 12:46 pm
>> Subject: carb            problem?
>> To: Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion
>>>            OK, so I'm not the best mechanic, when it comes to carbs.
>>>            Bye-bye box. wow, what a pain and poor design. and the
>>>            reed valves, really are not like a PVC? I know we just 
>>> talked
>>> about this but whats a good wat to plug            it?
>>> So, I yank the suckers off, and found the            pilots at 3 turns,
>>> instead of 2 to 2.5 turn, no biggy.            Idles great now. The
>> slides
>>> made different sounds            from one another and could be smoother.
>>> Diaphrams intact            and everything basically very clean.
>>> Still, any            acceleration and she bogs to a stall.
>>> So, I'm            considering taking the known good carbs off of
>>> bike 1, and            test bike 2 even though, the test will not have
>>> the air            box and using the muzzy as opposed to the stock
>>> one bike            1.
>>> I'm considering welding a handle to the            darn tank at this
>> point!
>>> Think I should empty the            tank first. J/K
>>>            Jer

More information about the GPZList mailing list