valve adjustment

Dave Daniels dwaynedaniels at sbcglobal.net
Sat Jan 13 19:42:15 PST 2007


I believe you can do this with a manual tensioner though. Seems I read that you adjust the manual screw in until the engine starts to bog down, then come back out a bit.

Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote:  There's no reason to measure it, we have an automatic tensioner (dripping 
with sarcasm)! However there is a pin to pin measurement in the service 
manual to tell you when your cam chain is hosed, which happens sooner when 
it's not properly tensioned, just like the drive chain.

Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jay Loeppke" 
To: "GPZ LIST" 
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: valve adjustment


> Brings up a another question. How do I measure or tell that the Cam 
> chain has proper tension. It looks stock to me. At a quick glance the 
> Service manual doesn't tell how to measure this.
> On Jan 13, 2007, at 9:15 PM, Steve Northrop wrote:
>
>> You can end up skipping a tooth on the cam sprockets because all the 
>> slack in the cam chain will move to the non-tensioned side of the chain. 
>> If the wonderful adjuster we are discussing as is not up to par, there 
>> could be considerable slack and the chain could skip a tooth, messing up 
>> your cam timing terribly.
>>
>> Steve in Western NY
>> '96 GPZ1100
>> '02 Daytona 955i
>> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Dave Daniels
>> To: Steve Northrop ; GPZ LIST
>> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 10:04 PM
>> Subject: Re: valve adjustment
>>
>>
>> Steve,
>> What's the consequence of rotating the engine clockwise (backward) ?
>>
>> Steve Northrop wrote:
>> When I set my valves, I use the second method you describe, Jay. 
>> It's
>> important that the rocker arm be on the base circle of the cam to 
>> get
>> accurate clearances. I agree with you that a couple of the rockers 
>> look
>> awful close to being on part of the lobe when using the "2 position" 
>> method.
>> I turn the engine so the cam lobes on the pair I want to check are 
>> opposite
>> the rockers. Then I know for sure I'm on the base circle of the cam 
>> before
>> clearance checking. Using this method also allows me to do all the 
>> intakes
>> then all the exhausts instead of hopscotching around the cylinder 
>> head. It
>> may take a few minutes more but your valve clearances will be more 
>> exact.
>> Just remember to always turn the motor forward (counter- clockwise as 
>> you
>> look at the engine from the timing cover side). If you overshoot, go 
>> around
>> again, don't back it up. And don't forget to take the rag out of the 
>> cam
>> chain tunnel opening before putting the valve cover back on. I 
>> forgot once,
>> it wasn't pretty.
>>
>> Steve in Western NY
>> '96 GPZ1100
>> '02 Daytona 955i
>> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jay Loeppke"
>> To: "GPZ LIST"
>> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:54 PM
>> Subject: valve adjustment
>>
>>
>>> Another question for all you helpful GPZ owners out there, (You helped 
>>> me
>>> through the carbs last time). I'am checking my valve clearance, between
>>> the helpful chart, instuctions found on the GPZ list and my service
>>> manual its going pretty good. I am a little puzzeled though at one
>>> point. I am sure I found TDC for the two position to check all valves.
>>> the problems lies with the #4 cylinder exhaust valves and #2 intake
>>> valves, the positon of the cam lobes do not look like there in the 
>>> right
>>> positon and there is no clearance at theses points. Every other point
>>> makes sense. Other than #2 intake valves, all the rest are in 
>>> tolerance.
>>> all the Exhaust valves are a "little" tight (.05-.07mm) with the
>>> exception of #4 which is zero. So I decided to check another way, and
>>> that is by putting the point of the cam lobe 180 degrees away from the
>>> basket. I checked all this way. All the measurements were the same
>>> except for the #2 intake (0 clearance before) now falls within 
>>> tolerances
>>> like the rest, and the # 4 exhaust vales are a "little" tight like the
>>> rest also. What should I go by. Once I decide I will pull the needed
>>> shims.
>>> This bike has 35k and I do not know the history of the so I'am
>>> going through the bike.
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>>
>>> Jay
>>
>>
>> 




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