Fork Dissasembly

Mark Reckinger marque at
Sun Apr 20 12:54:16 PDT 2008


Forget the trip to Menards. Pull your rear Axle. The crown nut from it
is an exact fit into the top of the damper. Just reverse it, get it held
in place (I just used a small bolt through the crown / hole in the
axle), drop the axle, crown nut first, down the fork. The axle is plenty
long (and rigid enough) to get a grip on the damper top. I tried the
Menards cludge and it was just too spindly to hold the damper firmly

Good luck,


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 20:00:35 -0600
From: 1KPerDay <1kperday at>
Subject: Well, now I am in a pickle. fork disassembly tools
Cc: gpzlist at
	<3ddf36ea0804191900sf1f73dat41e2fcb30c44aca4 at>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I FINALLY got my forks off the SheePz... after about 2 years of
procrastinating. The fork seals finally went and were dripping goo all
over. Not that big a deal... the hardest part was loosening the allen
bolts on the lower triple clamp. Not much room in there with the fairing

So I took the fork caps off and poured out the horrible-looking oil, and
prepared my 27mm impact socket and extensions to disassemble the damper
assembly. Crap... the impact socket is too thick to fit down the fork
tube. Drive 20 minutes to napa. All they have is impact sockets. "Don't
you have any crappier tools?" I ask the guy. He doesn't think so but
he'll look... finally get a 1 1/16 house brand socket that's thinner
walled than my impact socket. Go home and try it. Still too thick. What
the heck do you guys use? Paging Art....

On 9/3/07, Junkyardhotrod at <Junkyardhotrod at> wrote:>
> Its a 3/4 nut, hex size is 1 - 1/16, most  any truck dealership should

> have them in stock,
Utah Jeff
'96 SheePz1100

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