carb take 2

[andy burkard]

What Steve said...

Um, Jon, hate to say this but if you're asking questions like "what's a shim, clip, 108..." you may want to get some help.

it's really not hard to do, but it is tedious.  The key is what Steve said at the end - every bike is different and what worked for me may not for your in terms of jet sizes, where to put shims, etc.

what i described worked wonderfully for me, and the nice thing about the dynojet kit is that it comes with a free dyno run coupon which can help dial in where Steve is saying take it out and ride in those RPM ranges.  call your local dealers and ask them if they'll take the coupon, or i think there may even be a link on the coupon for participating dealers in your area.

I had my carbs on and off 4 or 5 times, and did about 3 dyno runs in all before i had mine dialed in.  yes, keeping the stock air box does make this process a total PITA, but once you're done, you'll be done.  patience, grasshopper...

have fun!
andy b

--- On Wed, 5/13/09, Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote:

> From: Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: carb take 2
> To: "Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion" <gpzlist at micapeak.com>
> Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2009, 6:01 PM
> The main jets have the number stamped
> on them. The clips are the little e-clips included in the
> kit, the shims are the little washers included in the kit.
> Yes the bike will run well with the stock diaphragm springs
> and the Dynojet parts. You can adjust the pilot screws
> without removing the carbs. If you need to make a needle or
> mainjet change, the carbs should be removed. Do not use an
> adhesive on the diaphragms. You can use a little Vaseline to
> hold the edges in before you replace the carb top.
> 
> Steve in Western NY
> '96 GPZ1100
> '08 KLR 650
> '08 Tuono Factory
> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Jonathon Jay 
>   To: blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> ; Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion 
>   Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 8:16 PM
>   Subject: RE: carb take 2
> 
> 
>   Ok, now a couple questions. 
>   I wouln't know a 108 main if it bit me in the ass.
> Same for this talk of clip and shim.
>   What I have is what was included in my DJ kit.
>   As long as I use my stock springs can I make it run
> well with the DJ supplied parts?
>    
>   Will I have to remove carbs every time I make
> adjustments?
>    
>   Lastly, I am cleaning the carbs too. I very
> carefully pulled the rubber diaphrams out, they're about the
> circumfrence of a lime and the needle goes in the middle.
> There appeared to be some mild adhesive helding them in.
> When it is time to reinstall, what do I use for adhesive?
> 
>   Regards- 
> 
>   J
> 
>   What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
>   ~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~
> 
> 
> 
>    
>   > From: blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
>   > To: gpzlist at micapeak.com
>   > Subject: Re: carb take 2
>   > Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:04:23 -0400
>   > 
>   > >>Don't screw around with the pilot
> screws if it idled right before you 
>   > >>put the kit in. All the screws do is
> affect mixture up to about 1200 rpm 
>   > >>or so.
>   > 
>   > This is not correct. The pilot screws affect
> air:fuel up to about 4000 rpm 
>   > so it is important to get these right for good
> part-throttle cruise. You 
>   > must have the ability to adjust them so remove
> the plugs covering them as 
>   > outlined in the jet kit.
>   > My recommendation FWIW:
>   > Install 108 main jets (as you have an
> aftermarket exhaust, particularly the 
>   > large headpipe SS2r)
>   > Do not change the pilot jets if you are keeping
> the stock airbox.
>   > Set the pilot screws at 2 1/2 turns out from
> lightly bottomed. Your 
>   > adjustment range is 1 turn to 4 turns out. 2
> 1/2 turns out is the middle of 
>   > the range and a good starting point.
>   > Drill the slides - be careful.
>   > Put an e-clip in the second groove from the top
> of each needle. Put a shim 
>   > washer on top of that, then put another e-clip
> in the first groove to retain 
>   > the shim washer. This clip-shim-clip
> arrangement duplicates the thickness of 
>   > the "nailhead" of the stock needle so there
> will be no up & down play of the 
>   > needle in the slide when you put the white
> plastic retainer over it. Make 
>   > sure none of the "feet" of the white plastic
> retainer cover the slide lift 
>   > hole.
>   > DO NOT install the kit supplied diaphragm
> springs. Reinstall the stock ones.
>   > Put it back together and fire it up.
>   > There are 3 circuits in the carburetor. The
> main jet is used in the 7000 to 
>   > redline RPM range, the needle controls the
> 4000-7000 rpm range and the pilot 
>   > screw from idle to about 4000 rpm. This is
> simplified a bit as there is some 
>   > overlap but for adjustment purposes, these are
> ranges each have the most 
>   > effect on.
>   > Start with the main jet. You must get this one
> right first. Take it out and 
>   > run it in the 7000 and up range. I know it's
> hard because of the speed 
>   > involved but what you are looking for is good
> throttle response, it pulls 
>   > hard and none to maybe a little blue smoke.
>   > Next is the needle. Again, run it in the
> 4000-7000 rpm range. Again you are 
>   > looking for good throttle response, pulls hard
> and makes a good transition 
>   > through 7000 rpm.
>   > Last is the pilot screws. What you are striving
> for is smooth running at a 
>   > steady 4000 rpm in second gear. If it runs
> smooth from the git-go, turn the 
>   > screws in a half turn at a time until it begins
> to surge and buck, then back 
>   > them out a half turn so you have the leanest
> setting the bike runs smoothly 
>   > at. If it surges from the start, back the
> screws out a half turn at a time 
>   > until it just goes away.
>   > Everybody's bike is different and some
> adjustments may need to be made to 
>   > tune your particular bike. The above is a good
> starting point.
> 
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