Out of lurk mode............SHIMS

1KPerDay 1kperday at gmail.com
Fri Jul 2 08:55:35 PDT 2010


Get a shop manual if you don't have one.
The spark plug wires should be marked with little tags, 1-4 starting at the
left side. If they aren't, mark them before you remove the plug leads
You do NOT have to drain the radiator or disconnect the coolant hoses.
You do NOT have to disconnect the throttle cables and other wiring that runs
across the top of the valve cover. Just gather it all into a bunch and tie
it up against one of the frame rails with a bandana.
You do NOT have to remove or replace the valve cover gasket or "figure 8"
spark plug gaskets unless they're leaking
You do NOT have to remove the crankcase cover to turn the crank with a
wrench; just remove the inspection hole cover and bump the cam lobes into
position using the starter (you might want to remove the spark plugs first,
particularly if they've never been checked/replaced). Actually you don't
really need to remove the inspection cover... just point the cam lobes up
and away from the valves at about 10 and 2 o'clock and check those. But if
it's your first time, you should probably use the inspection cover at least,
if not remove the crank cover.
REMEMBER to check all clearances and write them down BEFORE you start
removing/swapping shims
REMEMBER to stuff a rag into the cam chain hole on the left side BEFORE you
start removing shims
REMEMBER to remove the rag before you crank the starter again to move the
REMEMBER ro remove the rag before you button everything up again.

Essential tools: magnetic pick-up tool/wand, feeler gauges (the cheap set
from Sears is fine; the bent ones work well for some shims and the flat ones
work well for others; I got a set of each; they're cheap). Some moly grease
helps to stick the shims to your finger/screwdriver/whatever for
reinstallation. Make sure the shim is seated flush before sliding the finger
follower back on top of it.

It's quite straightforward and pretty interesting to do the valve
check/adjust. You can definitely do it. These bikes are among the easier to

The HOTCAMS kit is the deal. There's a range in the middle where most of
your adjusting will take place (if I remember correctly, around 2.50-2.70mm
ish) and the shims thicker or thinner than that will probably go unused. You
might need to buy/borrow/steal more of the ones in that range, depending on
your bike. If you write down/measure all the shims in your bike you may be
able to simply swap them around a bit and still retain good clearance. You
want to err on the side of MORE clearance. Tight clearances are not
desirable; the clearances generally tighten up as the valves/valve seats
wear. Looser is better.

Good luck. :) I'm sure I left out some important stuff but the others will
chime in.

On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 1:38 PM, Tom Wheeler <the74impala at hotmail.com> wrote:

>  Soooooo, since I have been quietly lurking for the last couple of years, I
> am out of practice for finding all the old posts, and certainly don't recall
> what to order from the stealer/parts places.  I know this has been rehashed
> over and over, but the wisdom of the ages would be appreciated once again.
> --
> Utah Jeff
> '96 SheePz1100

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