schnowz at att.net
Wed Mar 10 16:41:53 PST 2010
Thanks guys I haven't done carb's in years and don't particularly relish breathing solvents and gasoline, as I have to conserve the few brain cells I have left.
.. The 85 Sabre I had before the Geeper always started 1st time and the only cleaning it got was an Italian tuneup with Techron.
Years before that I remember dissolving the plastic bushings in the linkages when i dunked them in cleaner - sounds like that problem went away with today's plastic and solvents.
They have a Ultrasonic cleaner at work but I'm not sure it's big enough - gotta check it out though.
If I had the size I'd order the "O" rings - but Steve's suggestion of coating them should work fine.
See my opinions on the subject below. Hope they help a little and I'm
sure someone will chime in.
1. Don't worry about any plastic parts, they were designed to handle
2. I use Gunk carb cleaner, but any brand should work. Same as above,
the cleaner shouldn't hurt it.
3. I think there is a spring in the starter circuit IIRC, on the end
of the cable but I never had mine apart. Two kinds of starter
circuit, enrichening circuit and choke. How they work is very
4. Yes, the intake boots stay attached. I just had one replaced that
was leaking air, it made a noticeable difference on how the bike
starts and idles.
5. While I would normally reuse those rubber o-rings, if you could
replace them it wouldn't hurt, especially if they are hard. I'd bet
you could match them up at a car parts store.
6. Only trick is to use lots of compressed air after soaking the carb
bodies for a few days. I've used strands of copper wire to clean out
the pilot jets, but they are fairly cheap and I would replace them if
possible. If you know anyone with an ultrasonic cleaner those work
I use Castle Dragon's Breath. It's done a good job for me.
Supposed to be safe for carb rubber and plastic parts.
Don't know anything about the enrichening circuit, haven't had any problems
with it so haven't had any reason to take it apart. Yes, the boots stay on the motor.
Make sure they're tight against the head. I haven't replaced any of the pilot screw o-rings
but they make an o-ring lube that I use on them when I have them out. Seems to keep them pliable.
I would take the opportunity to set/equalize the float heights while I had them apart this far.
Mine were off. And don't forget a carb sync when you put them back on.
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