Brake woes
Alexander Finger
af at genevainformation.ch
Tue Jul 2 15:33:19 PDT 2019
thanks for the insight :)
I'll keep you guys posted about the progress, we're down to the south of
France next week with the Africa Twin and the GS750,. first..
Jeff Walker <walkerjl at charter.net> schrieb am Mi., 3. Juli 2019, 00:17:
> Brake temperatures at the pads routinely get past 200C, or 394F. During
> hard continuous braking, like going down a long hill at speed they can
> get to 1000F. 200C is easily hot enough to vaporize condensed water in
> brake fluid after heat transfer through the pad material and caliper
> pistons. All it would take is for a micro drop of water to vaporize to
> make the hydraulics feel spongy. Further, I've seen it happen on a
> poorly maintained car before. The water always condenses at the lowest
> point in the system, and that's also the hottest part of the
> hydraulics, at the piston calipers.
> Unless they've overheated routinely, it's far more likely for the seals
> in a master cylinder to fail than a caliper piston seals. The
> degradation mechanism comes from sliding wear, and the piston calipers
> hardly move at all. The good news is that the master cylinder also has
> the least contaminated fluid at it's seals, as the corrosion products
> migrate down to the calipers. The counterpoint is that the heat at the
> calipers causes hardening of the elastomers in the seals.
> However, that being said, sticking calipers almost always stick in the
> applied direction and fail to retract, vs sticking such that they
> prevent the hydraulic force from squeezing the pads on the rotor. Or if
> the seals are failing, brake fluid leakage is evident.
> Otherwise a master cylinder seals can leak by and fail to produce
> hydraulic pressure with no evidence of leakage. That's what happened to
> my rear master two years ago. Very minimal brake force applied at full
> stomp, then it would fail to retract when I took my foot off, and no
> leakage. Rebuilt it and it's back to perfect.
> In the last 130K+ miles on my GPz I've gone through several sets of
> pads, but I'm still on the original calipers. I always bleed them
> before and after pad replacement, as pressing the pistons back in to
> install the new pads always frees up more gunk to be flushed out.
> New brake lines are always challenging to bleed the first time. My
> metal braided lines both connect at the master cylinder, each having a
> straight run to their respective caliper and eliminating that "Y"
> cylinder above the fender. Much easier to bleed that way.
> Just goes to show the importance of preventative maintenance. I flush
> and bleed the brakes on all my vehicles every two years regardless of
> how often they're used. As a result I very rarely have any issues with
> the brakes outside of normal pad wear. The rate of degradation of the
> brake fluid is mostly time dependent, not mile dependent.
> Sorry for the long winded response, but as a mechanical engineer that
> specialized in maintenance, troubleshooting, and failure analysis of
> far more complex systems I get interested in topics like this.
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