Strange clutch problem
kc at brgracing.com
Wed Jul 1 19:36:15 PDT 2009
5w30 very light very wrong. Racer did it with out talking to me first. Thing
lock up on the starting grid. Had to pull out of the race. Almost cost us
the championship for that year
The Home of A Sickness for Quickness
K.C. Owner of BRG Racing Products and Dyno Services
kc at brgracing.com
Shop # 925-680-2560
Toll Free # 1-877-ride-brg
110 2nd Ave South Unit D 12
Pacheco Ca 94553
From: sv650-bounces at micapeak.com [mailto:sv650-bounces at micapeak.com] On
Behalf Of Chris Burgess
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 7:29 PM
To: Suzuki SV650 Mailing List
Subject: Re: Strange clutch problem
What oil and weight were you running when this happened?
On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 7:15 PM, KC Gager <kc at brgracing.com> wrote:
> Look at the clutch hub washer just under the clutch hub. I think u might
> find that it's welded to the trany input shaft and the clutch hub.
> The cause for us was to light of oil.
> The Home of A Sickness for Quickness
> K.C. Owner of BRG Racing Products and Dyno Services
> kc at brgracing.com
> Shop # 925-680-2560
> Toll Free # 1-877-ride-brg
> 110 2nd Ave South Unit D 12
> Pacheco Ca 94553
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sv650-bounces at micapeak.com [mailto:sv650-bounces at micapeak.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim Stewart
> Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 1:02 PM
> To: _SV race list; _SV/DL Riders
> Subject: Strange clutch problem
> Hi, guys -
> Last summer on a 3 day ride we had an odd problem first thing in the
> the second day.
> Ravi's SV 650 had a stuck clutch, just like a British bike. I've never
> before in a Japanese bike. After starting it in neutral and pulling in the
> clutch, it wouldn't disengage. Just like my BSA. It had just been sitting
> I tried to break it loose by pulling in the clutch in second gear and
> the starter, but no good - the starter just pushed the bike across the
> lot. Finally I started the engine in neutral, pulled in the clutch,
> teeth and jammed the shift lever into first. Just like I have to do to my
> It worked, and the clutch behaved normally thereafter. No problem the next
> morning, no problem since then.
> I want to emphasize that this wasn't a cable or linkage problem - the
> felt normal when I pulled on the lever. But the plates were stuck together
> though the spring pressure was removed.
> In a few days the bike's coming out to my place for a clutch inspection,
> not inclined to replace the friction plates in a working clutch on a
> bike. Unless, of course, we find something wrong.
> Anyone else had this problem on an SV? Or any other modern bike?
> Suggestions welcome!
> Here's my response to Ravi:
> > Ravi wrote:
> >> what exactly do you want me to buy?
> >> Also, where should I buy it from that you recommend?
> I wrote:
> > That's a tough question.
> > Am I correct that your clutch had never stuck before, and that it
> > since?
> > A sticking clutch that has to be broken loose with a shock is common on
> > Brit bikes, and it's caused by a poor choice of friction material in
> > clutch plates or a poor choice of oil. Or both. But with a Brit bike
> > problem would typically occur after the bike had been sitting for a
> > while, several days or more. Not overnight, as in your case. And it
> > wouldn't go away after one episode.
> > Furthermore, I've never heard of this problem with any Japanese bike,
> > old or new.
> > Since the clutch operates in oil, sticking can be caused by either the
> > friction plates or the oil - do you recall what brand/weight oil you
> > were running last summer? In the absence of any other data, I'm
> > to think the problem was oil related.
> > Beth mentioned notched splines in the clutch basket, a problem she has
> > on her SV, but that wouldn't cause your problem - notches cause the
> > clutch to grab suddenly when engaging, but don't cause problems
> > disengaging.
> > My inclination is to inspect the clutch first - in which case all we'll
> > need is a new O-ring for the clutch cover. But if you want we could
> > replace the friction plates anyway. It won't take any longer, since
> > we'll already have them out, but it'd be a stab in the dark at an extra
> > $110 or so.
> > I recommend Ron Ayers: http://fiche.ronayers.com/ Check out the clutch
> > fiche for your bike: http://tinyurl.com/m2d66t
> > Note that the drawing is incorrect - it shows a total of 8 friction
> > plates (the ones with the tabs on the outer edge), 7 is the correct
> > count. There are 6 of 21441-37440 @ 13.28 each and one of 21440-19F00 @
> > $31.24. The steel plates between them don't wear - with extreme abuse
> > they will warp, causing drag on disengagement (not your problem).
> > You will need the large O-ring for the cover, 11484-19F01, $11.18.
> > http://tinyurl.com/l7h5df
> > It's *possible* that the dealer would have this in stock. If they stock
> > anything at all anymore.
> > ----------------
> > This would be the appropriate time to change your oil, since we'll need
> > to drain it to work on the clutch. Unless you've just done that, in
> > which case we can put it back. Or work on the clutch with the bike on
> > the sidestand.
> > -js
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