some advice re: downshifting in corner entry

Jo Rhett jorhett at fastlizardracing.com
Thu May 12 02:56:43 PDT 2011


On May 10, 2011, at 12:50 PM, Randy Grein wrote:
>  As you have time while braking bang the correct number of downshifts with the clutch still in, then blip the throttle to get the engine near redline and EASE out the clutch.

Wow, okay, this is something I've never even thought of.  I always roll lightly on the throttle, just barely enough to get the engine working in the new gear.  I've never spun it up with a hard pull on the throttle towards redline.  Wow.

How do you do this while doing hard braking?  I'm having enough trouble lightly moving the throttle while braking.

> History, and why this works: I mentioned 2 strokes earlier; they have next to no engine braking

Yeah I still have a small 2-stroke I'm trying to sell.  But yeah, it spoiled me because I never had to worry about rear wheel anything.  Mine didn't have enough power to highside me, and they never slow the bike through the rear so it was always on rails.

> Use a bit of CONTROLLABLE rear brake instead and you can outbrake the field, both straight up and leaned over. Just keep in mind what I said earlier - you are applying a SMALL amount of rear brake over a very long distance to scrub off speed.


I started racing with Ex500s and a Honda CRF100 so I got to know how to use the rear brake because neither one will slow down much without it.  But I haven't found the rear useful on the SV, given that my rear wheel tends to be (slightly) airborne under braking.  I'll consider using it mid-turn, but I had found even on the smaller bikes that using the rear tends to lengthen the bike.  Letting go of the rear brake after turn-in shortened the trail and made the bike turn better...

-- 
Jo Rhett /  velociRaptor Racing
#553 WERA / AFM



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