some advice re: downshifting in corner entry

Randy Grein randygrein at comcast.net
Thu May 12 08:20:38 PDT 2011


Randy Grein

On May 12, 2011, at 2:56 AM, Jo Rhett wrote:

> On May 10, 2011, at 12:50 PM, Randy Grein wrote:
>> As you have time while braking bang the correct number of  
>> downshifts with the clutch still in, then blip the throttle to get  
>> the engine near redline and EASE out the clutch.
>
> Wow, okay, this is something I've never even thought of.  I always  
> roll lightly on the throttle, just barely enough to get the engine  
> working in the new gear.  I've never spun it up with a hard pull on  
> the throttle towards redline.  Wow.
>
> How do you do this while doing hard braking?  I'm having enough  
> trouble lightly moving the throttle while braking.
This statement brings the problem into focus. New superbike motor,  
lots more compression and you're dialed into the supersport motor. I  
guess the answer is that during really hard braking I don't always do  
all of that (especially the list you had in an earlier post), so  
technique depends on the situation. Under really hard braking I'll  
hold off on downshifts until later in the brake chute, pulling in the  
clutch if necessary to keep wheel hop down. But keep in mind I'm not  
talking about a 'hard pull on the throttle', just a bigger blip. You  
HAVE to match engine speed to wheel speed on the downshift pretty  
close and that's easier to do around 6 grand than 10 grand.


>> History, and why this works: I mentioned 2 strokes earlier; they  
>> have next to no engine braking
>
> Yeah I still have a small 2-stroke I'm trying to sell.  But yeah, it  
> spoiled me because I never had to worry about rear wheel anything.   
> Mine didn't have enough power to highside me, and they never slow  
> the bike through the rear so it was always on rails.
>
>> Use a bit of CONTROLLABLE rear brake instead and you can outbrake  
>> the field, both straight up and leaned over. Just keep in mind what  
>> I said earlier - you are applying a SMALL amount of rear brake over  
>> a very long distance to scrub off speed.
>
>
> I started racing with Ex500s and a Honda CRF100 so I got to know how  
> to use the rear brake because neither one will slow down much  
> without it.  But I haven't found the rear useful on the SV, given  
> that my rear wheel tends to be (slightly) airborne under braking.   
> I'll consider using it mid-turn, but I had found even on the smaller  
> bikes that using the rear tends to lengthen the bike.  Letting go of  
> the rear brake after turn-in shortened the trail and made the bike  
> turn better...
Well, it's not going to be useful when the wheel is in the air. (grin)  
Mid turn is the right place to use it, or in the rain when you can't  
get rear wheel air. Classic wide entry turns too, after the initial  
turn-in. Some people claim that tapping the rear brake at corner entry  
makes the rear squat which makes harder braking possible and controls  
rear wheel hop, but I never got it to work right.


All in all, I'd start with turning the idle up and adjust technique as  
appropriate. Just make sure to watch your revs downshifting, you don't  
want to blow up that shiny new motor!
> -- 
> Jo Rhett /  velociRaptor Racing
> #553 WERA / AFM
>



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