B U O N G I O R N O and W E L C O M E to the QuackFAQ the Frequently Asked Questions of the Ducati Mailing List, Version 1.1 ___ \_\_\_ \_ \_ \_\_ \_\_ \_\_\_ \_ O /_ _\ O \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ >\___/< \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_\_\_ \_ \_ (>(___)<) \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \_ | |^| | \_\_\_ \_\_ \_\_ \_ \_ \_ \_ \|^|/ |^| - THE MAILING LIST FOR DUCATI ENTHUSIASTS. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Welcome to Version 1.1 of the Ducati FAQ. It is a compendium of common factiods culled from the many musings and ramblings of knowledgeable individuals who have "been there," and some who just pose but happen to remember the best parts. While I have made reasonable attempts at verifying accuracy, keep in mind that this is an "Everyman's Truth," what is gained by hearsay outside of official channels, and could be somewhat inaccurate. However, this information can be extremely useful anyway in deciding on making a purchase, updating your bike, getting repair work done, etc. Take it for what it's worth, check your information with reliable sources before doing anything expensive or life-threatening, and when you find out more (or different), send your information in a posting to the list so that everyone else can scam it. Besides, you could be in print! No doubt there are gaps in the information provided, and some may now be out of date. As this FAQ will be updated regularly, don't be afraid to email your requests and material either to the list or to me personally. Also, while I did not mean to single out any particular years or models, the information appears to favor the "rubberbandheads," belt-driven Ducatis of recent vintage. Again, this is not intentional but a by-product of the list's content. I would like to change this, but need more material to make it the list for *all* Ducatis. Many of those reading will no doubt see themselves in print here. I have edited the content to make it more readable and have amended and combined similar information together. Don't get mad, get even; send me feedback at the address below. I am deeply indebted to the many who have helped with and contributed to this FAQ. While naming names would take forever, I do appreciate all the folks who supplied (whether they knew it or not) material for this work to pass on to future Lusters. I would specifically like to acknowledge Michael Nelson, Tom Dietrich, Godfrey DiGiorgi, Mike Lee, Brad Turner, Bob Koure, Sheri Coble, Ian Gunn, Ed Hackett, Beth "Wolverine" Dixon, TJ "Teej" Noto and Ed "Gooz" Guzman for their contributions and support. This list, it's editors and contributors supply information "as is" without express or implied warranty. Oh yeah, this work is Copyright (c) 1994 by Jon Wright. It may be freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in commercial documents without the author's written permission. So there.... Keep the list alive and healthy -- contribute. Jon Wright (jwright@pages.com) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SUBSCRIBING This list is specifically for owners of, (and those interested in), DUCATI motorcycles. Discussions on this list should be limited to issues directly relating to Ducati motorcycles. Discussions of other European brands are more appropriate for the EuroMoto list, so if you want to discuss Moto Guzzis, Cagiva Mitos and the like, please subscribe to euro-moto and carry on those discussions there. The list software being used to run the Ducati Mailing list is MajorDomo version 1.92. This list is administered by Michael Nelson, (nelson@seahunt.imat.com). To subscribe, send an email message to: majordomo@seahunt.imat.com The text of the message should say simply: subscribe ducati Majordomo will get back to you shortly with a confirmation / welcome message with further instructions. Actual posts to the list should be sent to: ducati@seahunt.imat.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ARCHIVES Archives of past postings are available via anonymous FTP from the ftp server at seahunt.imat.com. Listprocessor archives are kept in the /pub/mailing_lists area. They are also available via WWW from: http://seahunt.imat.com/ducati.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DIGEST MODE MajorDomo handles digest mode a bit differently than some other mailing list packages. It maintains separate subscriber lists for digest mode and normal mode, and they have different addresses. So, if you are currently subscribed in normal mode and you want to get the mailing list messages in digest form instead of getting all the individual messages, you need to unsubscribe from the ducati mailing list and then subscribe to the "ducati-digest" mailing list. You do this by sending a message to the listprocessor (not the list itself) at "majordomo@seahunt.imat.com". The text of the message should say: unsubscribe ducati Thanks for joining us! Michael Nelson ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. "My brakes squeal. Is there anything I can do to restore my dignity?" 2. "Well, my brakes really suck; what can I do to improve their performance? 3. "What's the best way to bed in my new brake pads?" 4. "Can my rotors be re-turned?" 5. "Should I use DOT 3, 4 or 5 brake fluid when replacing?" 6. "How do I remove that friggin' retaining pin out of my Brembo calipers to get the brake pad out?" 7. "Can I convert my 750ss' front disk arrangement to dual disks?" 8. "How long should the choke be engaged while warming up my Duck?" 9. "I've been told recently that the previous 3000 mi. interval between valve adjustments has just been upped by Cagiva to 5000 mi. Is this true?" 10. "What kind of servicing is due at 12000 miles?" 11. "Do you have to read Italian to understand the shop manual?" 12. "I pulled my plugs recently and while the tips were dry and dark with the porcelain a brownish color, both had this oily film on the threads. Should I be worried?" 13. "What kind of chain should I use for my 900cc bike?" 14. "My Duck's dry clutch seems to moan and groan a lot. Should I opt for the Barnett or what?" 15. "Are dry clutches inherently finicky? If so, why did Ducati put them on their bikes?" 16. "What is the best way to break in my new bike's motor? I've heard that a petroleum-based oil is best for the break-in period, but then I should switch to a synthetic oil. Is this true?" 17. "Which oil is best for my Duck? Can I use car oils?" 18. "Should I worry about that white scum that seems to appear inside the oil sight glass?" 19. "Should I be worried about my crankcase breather seeping, specifically a light mist on the back side of the engine case, between the right swingarm pivot and the clutch cover?" 20. "Do most of you guys have the European kickstand that automatically flicks up when the bike is straightened up?" 21. "Where can I get OEM and aftermarket Ducati parts and accessories?" 22. "Which tailpieces are most commonly used by other Monster [M900] riders and how were they set up?" 23. "Do I really need a steering damper on my Monster [M900]?" 24. "What kind of performance increase can be expected from going to the Ferracci/Staintune/Termignoni/CarbonTech/etc. exhaust canisters?" 25. "The shop is recommending Dynojetting and changing the pipes. How much performance will this buy me? Are there other things I can do?" 26. "My fuel-injected Ducati seems to pop a lot when I'm accelerating; no smoke, just noise. Is it too lean? What is the equivalent of rejetting the carburetors for highly-evolved steed?" 27. "I hear there are better plugs than the factory recommends, some type of extended nose plugs. True?" 28. "Is there anything I should know regarding touch-up paint application?" 29. "To remove the unneeded stickers on the tank and other places, is the best way to warm them with a hair dryer and peel gently?" 30. "How do I remove my in-line filter that lives INSIDE my gas tank?" 31. "What is the 5mm Allen key trick that everyone talks about?" 32. "Do I really have to remove the radiator on my water-cooled Ducati to adjust the horizontal cylinder's valves?" 33. "I just noticed that greyish smoke is coming out of my exhaust pipes when I close the throttle. I heard there was a problem with valve guides wearing prematurely on later Ducatis. Is this the cause? How can I tell on mine if it doesn't smoke?" 34. "Loctite comes in so many different colors (strengths). Which color do I use for my particular application?" 35. "I seem to have a charging problem on my fuel-injected Ducati (907ie/851/888 etc.). Even when ridden daily, the battery seems to need a charge every few days or so. Is this common, and what can I do about it?" 36. "I signed up for Reg Pridmore's CLASS, a high-performance school. What kind of prepping do I need to do to my bike before I get there? What can I expect?" 37. "What kind of luggage can I get for my sport-tourer?" 38. SUMMARY -- Favorite Modifications and Changes Seen on the Ducati List, by Model and more or less in Order of Importance. 39. "I have one of the Weber-carburetted Ducatis (Paso 750/906, 750 Sport) and it's driving me crazy trying to keep it in tune. Is there any hope?" 40. "Can vertically challenged [re: short] people still ride Ducatis?" 41. "Where can I get neat Ducati pictures to drool over?" 42. If you can't afford a Ducati, but still have Duc-lust... 43. Shameless quickie product endorsements. 44. Nifty tricks, tips and mods every self-respecting Ducati owner ought to know about. 45. PRODUCT WARNINGS! 46. "What would you do for a 916?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1. "My brakes squeal. Is there anything I can do to restore my dignity?" Squeal can be caused by the vibrating of some mass, in this case, hard or soft spots or hot/cold spots in the disk material, warped disks, or glazed pads. There can be other causes too numerous to mention. Two possible solutions to change the vibration frequency: A) Damp the vibrating brake pad with a copper shim or some type of goo. This'll change the frequency enough that it will pass out of the annoying range (for you, maybe not for dogs and deer). The copper shim between the piston and pad back decouples the the high frequency vibration that is being transmitted as "squeal," the copper acting as a bearing surface. B) Lubricate the BACK side of the pads; in theory this just lets them move more freely and go past the annoying range. Some folks have tried sanding the pads on a flat surface using 80-40 grit sandpaper to break the occasional glaze, chamfering the leading edge of the pad by about 15 degrees or so. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2. "Well, my brakes really suck; what can I do to improve their performance? Add-ons?" (Thanks to Michael Nelson for help on this one.) Before you contemplate investing serious money in add-ons that may or may not make that much of a difference, start with the basics first; they're less expensive (usually) and can make all the difference in the world. The items you can try below assumes there aren't more serious maintenance issues like deteriorated seals, minor rust in the master cylinder or just plain crap in the lever pivot. 1) First, just bleed 'em and replace the fluid with some good DOT 4 stuff. Flush 'em out real good, and clean the dust and crap out of the caliper(s). Make sure when you bleed them that you get ALL the air out; often a bubble will get caught in fittings and in the "L" junction where it goes into the master cylinder. Removing the master cylinder from the bars and tapping on it with something like a plastic screwdriver handle while bleeding them will often dislodge such bubbles. 2) While you're at it, get some fine emery paper and lightly sand the rotor(s). The key word is LIGHTLY. You don't want to sand in some low spots; just get the glaze off of them. Make sure they aren't warped by inspecting them laid down on a perfectly flat surface, and that they are within the proper limits for thickness. Better yet, have someone make the inspection for you -- how many folks actually have something that's perfectly flat? 3) Check the pads. Make sure they aren't glazed, and if you didn't break them in properly (see Paul Thompson's excellent piece on breaking in new pads, included in this FAQ) put new ones in and break THEM in properly. 4) Lube the lever pivot points to make sure everything is moving freely. If, after all of the above, the lever still feels mushy, it could be a good excuse to ante up some money and swap your rubber brake lines for braided, stainless ones. It seems that the stock Brembo pads aren't very good at dissipating heat. When they get hot, they get the brake fluid hot. When the brake fluid gets hot, the lines can get warm and spongy feeling. This can manifest itself as FADE. Riders have reported that the lever can, in fact, come all the way back to the bars over extended hard uses when the fluid temps get elevated. This is bad. Try different brands of pads -- EBC, Ferodo, SBS all make pads for the Brembo calipers. The absolute last thing to try would be either replacing the rotors with cast iron ones, or replacing the master cylinder with a larger one. This is a last resort, and not for the weak of wallet. Definitely try all the other stuff first -- a complete set of lines including two for the front brake rotors, one for the rear and one for the clutch runs about $150 as of this writing, not counting installation. Opt for Kevlar if you can afford it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3. "What's the best way to bed in my new brake pads?" (Reprinted from an article by Paul Thompson, Apple Computer.) Here's what I do, with good results: 1) After mounting the new pads, ride around a bit and apply the brakes often but not too hard, to make sure they're in place correctly. 2) Now find a long, fairly straight section of road where you can safely travel about 35 MPH. Select a gear which is about halfway to redline. Drag your brake (do the front and rear separately) as you apply throttle. Keep doing this until you feel the brakes start to fade. You'll probably smell them about this time too. 3) Get off the brake, speed up to about 70, and then brake hard again using only that brake. Repeat one more time. 4) Continue riding without using that brake to allow it to cool completely. What's this all about? I'm told that the process of getting the pads very hot (called "green-fading") bakes away the adhesives near the surface of the pad which interfere with full braking. As the pads wear, the adhesives will recede naturally after the initial baking. I've used this procedure every time I replace my pads, and have noticed vastly improved brakes each time. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 4. "Can my rotors be re-turned?" Yes, bike rotors can be surface ground with a liquid cooled surface grinder so long as they aren't thinner than specified in the shop manual after your done. Surface grinding is more precise than turning. It will not, however cure warped disks, so if that's the case, don't screw around with your life and go get the new rotors. Note that if your rotors are vented, the vent holes must be re-chamfered after grinding. If this isn't done properly, you will have little hard spots around every hole. You'll feel this soon enough. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 5. "Should I use DOT 3, 4 or 5 brake fluid when replacing?" DOT 3 and DOT 4 are essentially identical. 4 has a higher boiling point, but motorcycle brake systems don't generate the kind of pressure and temperatures that need it on the street, in general, although it certainly won't hurt your system to put it in. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6. "How do I remove that friggin' retaining pin out of my Brembo calipers to get the brake pad out?" Basically, you drive it out from the WHEEL side of the caliper using a punch. It has a spring collett on the outer end that fits into a recess on the caliper. Looks kinda like this: / \ ===| |============= <---- drive it out from the INSIDE ===| |============= \ / PIN COLLETT ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 7. "Can I convert my 750ss' front disk arrangement to dual disks?" You can just install the second disk and caliper onto the 750ss but you might find that the lever travel becomes great enough to bottom into the bar. The 900ss master cylinder has a larger diameter and pushes more fluid, giving you a little less travel to achieve the same pressure and a firmer feel. Recommendations include switching to the one used on the 1994 750ss, which is factory-equipped with dual front disks and uses a remote reservoir master cylinder -- unfortunately not found in the States but possibly could be sourced. When the second brake assembly and stainless lines are installed (you WILL install stainless steel lines with this, right?), be sure that they are bled very thoroughly. The recommendation from Pro Italia and BTF Motors is to use a vacuum bleeder for the best results. The design of the brake caliper and double banjo union off of the master cylinder makes it easy to trap air bubbles, causing a terribly mushy feel. Slater Brothers sells a kit containing a second disc, caliper, and line for $595 as of this writing, which may be used on the 750ss. This price doesn't include the 16mm master cylinder, but you can purchase one from them for $150. Slater Bros. POB 1, Mica, WA 99023 (509) 924-5131 If after reading the above you didn't want to go to all that trouble, you might think about just adding the stainless lines and 16mm master cylinder. There is as least one poster who is very happy with this. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 8. "How long should the choke be engaged while warming up my Duck?" Generally, not very long, just enough until you can keep it going without it. This can be anywhere from a few seconds to one or two minutes, depending on the clime. You can feel the side of the cooling fins on air- cooled models for the beginnings of warmth. When you DO get it to sustain an idle, start riding but don't rev the motor until it's fully warmed up as the oil isn't really circulating in the mechanical bits yet, about 10 to 15 minutes or so. An engine will warm up more quickly when it's got a light load, as opposed to sitting idling away. No engine should ever be run on enrichened mixtures longer than necessary, as this is a prescription for premature carbon deposits on your exhaust valves. Note that fuel-injected bikes have a fast-idle setup, which obviates worrying about the mixture; it turns off the cold start setup when its good and ready and you only have control of the fast idle. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 9. "I've been told recently that the previous 3000 mi. interval between valve adjustments has just been upped by Cagiva to 5000 mi. Is this true?" Yes. Recent service manuals have been updated to reflect a 4600 mi. interval, despite the continuance of the 3K figure in the owner's manual. This applies to both 2- and 4-valve motors. The stability record of modern Duck valve clearances seems to be rather high. Many folks are noting that clearances are retained well into the 10K range. Keep in mind this all depends on usage -- racebikes can expect some deviations from this due to the number of engine-hours spent at redline, etc. However, pit crews ought to be checking this regularly, anyway, right? Note that it wouldn't be out of the ordinary to find one right off, however, so don't risk it. There's no guarantees that you'll be as lucky as the next person. If you're perceptive, you can hear them click or jangle if they get a little sloppy. If you end up checking the valves yourself, there's a video made by Pro Italia just for you. It's probably worth checking out, as the most important thing concerning valve clearances (and belts, too) is to keep on top of a potentially expensive situation before it gets by you. If you find that you, in fact, need to replace a shim upon inspection, the advice would be to leave it torn down and take the bike to a Ducati dealer you trust. They have the replacements, and those don't come in all the incremental sizes so some grinding may be necessary to get the precise fit necessary. With the bodywork off, you might save a little labor expense. As an example, Dale at BTF Motors in Livermore charges $25 per shim for labor to install one, whereas you can probably count on five to six hours of labor if the nice expensive mechanic has to do the assembly/disassembly of really simple things. Unless, of course, you really like your mechanic.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 10. "What kind of servicing is due at 12000 miles?" At 12000 miles you should: * change oil and filter * check and adjust valves as necessary * install new plugs * re-trim EFI if necessary, including re-balance * service fuel filter/air filter as required * replace and set tensions on the cam drive belts * lube and inspect all cables, bulbs, connections, etc.... It's probably also a really good idea to flush and bleed the brakes every year, and relube the steering head and suspension pivot bearings. The 851 runs the swing arm pivot in the cases like the 750ss/900ss series bikes, which don't need service, but you ought to lube the pivot bearings on the rear suspension yearly. Finish it with flushing/refilling the fork assembly, which is easier done pulling the fork legs off first (facilitating lubing the steering head). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 11. "Do you have to read Italian to understand the shop manual?" -- some anecdotes to amuse you. From: Ian Gunn (gunn@watson.ibm.com) How else can you understand the owner's and shop manuals, or the parts book? Certainly not by reading the purported English translation, with its references to 'pressostat', 'thermic group', 'drain tube', etc. Only by reading the Italian in the 851 manual was I able to discover that the instructions for 'removing the motor together with the frame', which I never wanted to do, were really instructions for removing the engine complete FROM the frame, which was what I was trying to do all along. From: Michael Nelson (nelson@seahunt.imat.com) One problem I've run into with the service manuals is that in spite of the fact that they have a very detailed chart in the back with torque settings, it can be a real challenge to find the item you're looking for in the chart due to the terminology. For instance, the torque for the intake and exhaust manifold bolts is listed under "suction and discharge flange stud bolts." From: Mike Lee (mikel@ichips.intel.com) Oh yeah, also: "The absence of a heat exchange element between thermic mass and radiant mass could cause an overheating in the piston-cylinder assemblies with consequent seizures and, worse, damage to the crank mechanism." Oh, and does anyone have the correct torque setting for the six screws that hold the clutch plates to the drum/basket? I can't seem to find that in the torque listing sections or the clutch area. Or perhaps I didn't realize it was listed as the "thermic unit to final drive coupling rotational mass...." =8^) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 12. "I pulled my plugs recently and while the tips were dry and dark with the porcelain a brownish color, both had this oily film on the threads. Should I be worried?" Probably not. This can happen from time to time on bikes (cars, too) with no oil consumption at all. Many Ducati owners have noticed this phenomenon, and it doesn't seem to correlate to any problem areas. As long as the electrodes and the insulators look good, you can postulate a more realistic picture of the health of the engine. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 13. "What kind of chain should I use for my 900cc bike?" (Thanks to Godfrey DiGiorgi for some exhaustive research on this whilst recuperating.) Ducati went to 520 size chains a few years ago to lighten the bikes and allow for a wider tire. A 520 chain on a high output 900 class machine is really a narrow, small chain for the application. Most older Duc twins have 530s. Consequently, if you're getting really good mileage out of your chain, like over 10K or so, it must be a pretty damn good chain in OEM specifications, right? Ducati specs the DID brand 520VL for use with their big bikes -- SS, 851/888, 907, Monster. It's possible the 750's also use this chain as OEM. This chain is a "special chain series" for DID, also including: Model Plate Thickness Wear Resistance Tensile Stngth Wght inner outer INDEX lbs. 100L 520VL .087 .087 2430 8100 3.88 520VM .079 .079 3140 8050 3.39 520ERV2 .079 .079 2820 8180 3.53 The VM is the X-Ring Gold premium chain and the ERV2 is for racing applications, also gold but without any type of warranty on it's life. All are only sold with press master link, by the way. From the DID data, we can surmise the OEM chain that Ducati uses is inexpensive and gets good tensile strength through thick link plates at the expense of some weight. A swap to the VM or ERV2 chains will give effectively the same strength and durability but will be lighter; of course, it'll also be more costly. According to RK literature, they do not have a chain that matches the DID specs in terms of tensile strength. While you can use one, keep in mind that it will probably not last as long. RK is not fond of the clip master link supplied with their GR520SO, the closest match, for the reason that it is still slightly under spec. Tsubaki recommends only the 520 Omega, with only 7600 lbs. of tensile strength, again with a clip master link. The technical rep for Tsubaki said that a more reliable press fit link could be had on special order, and in fact would only make the recommendation with this link in mind. Tsubaki differentiates their chains by using sintered pins that are also somewhat larger than their competitors. For comparison purposes, the 530 Sigma chain made for bikes like the CBR900RR has a tensile strength of 10,300 lbs. Tsubaki makes a point of noting that Scott Russell used a Tsubaki chain on his Kawasaki at Daytona this year, and Pascal Picotte, riding a Ducati, did not. Russell won, obviously an endorsement for chains, but note also that Picotte's broke in the melee, ending his race. Doug Polen used Tsubaki Omega's for both his World Superbike and AMA Superbike winning seasons. One poster related that he had good results racing his 851 using the clip-style master links. There is a special tool that must be acquired to put the clip on, however, as it is an interference fit. He recommends that you clean the side plate and clip of the master link with lacquer thinner, followed by a drop of superglue, before you put it on. Once in place, he sticks some Permatex blue semi-hardening sealer over the clip and side plate. The blue Permatex makes it easy to spot the link with the clip when doing a pre-ride inspection, and the semi-hardening nature of the goop makes it easy to see if there has been any relative movement between the clip and the link. He has never had a problem with splitting links on his racebikes. Regina recommends their 135 ORS model, which has gold external links and copper rollers. Link plates are .087" thick, both inner and outer, average tensile strength is rated at 7510 lbs, and weight is .75 lbs per foot length. Recommended fitment is with a press fit master link. They sell the proper tools to assemble and fit both the clip and press fit master links, should you choose. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 14. "My Duck's dry clutch seems to moan and groan a lot. Should I opt for the Barnett or what?" You may just need the Ducati factory clutch update -- a factory upgrade to the clutch pack for all '91 and '92 dry clutch machines that was made standard on the '93s. The update kit is amusing: it's one plate, a special slightly convex one, and instructions on how to reorder the plates in the clutch pack. You take one out, you shuffle the deck and viola! smoother, quieter engagement is supposed to result. The '91 and '92 904cc motors were equipped with a clutch which had flat pressure plates, dual sided friction plates, one convex pressure plate and one specially thick, single sided friction plate. Somewhere around late '92 or early '93, Ducati revised the clutch pack. The revision is to toss the thick friction plate, add another convex pressure plate, and shuffle the pack a little bit. This upgraded clutch pack is a warranty/ upgrade item and should be available free of charge from your dealer to my knowledge. The new pack is installed thus: (cover side -------> engine side) Pp - Fr - Fl - Fr - Sp> - Fr - Fl - ... - Fr - " or " cd ducati ftp> dir 'binary' will put you into binary mode for downloading .jpg or .gif files. 'get' will transfer files from the server to your workstation 'put' does the opposite for a complete listing, just ftp in and get (in ascii mode) $dir-by-date.txt <- directory sorted by descending date, ascending name. $dir-by-name.txt <- full directory sorted by dir/name $whats-new.txt <- this is updated daily to show most recent 15 submissions. README and .txt files: you need to be in ASCII mode to download, 'ascii' ftp> goodbye There's a software directory with mac, pc and unix viewing software. If you hop up a directory (use CDUP here, not cd ..) you will find a few hundred more of other manufacturers'. If you're in Europe, you can try ftp: jupiter.lfbs.rwth-aachen.de cd /pub/.rec/graphics/pix/bikes. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 42. If you can't afford a Ducati, but still have Duc-lust... ... that Ducati sound IS available on CD! Write: Lars Ekman Flotviksvagen 13, S-162 72 Vallingby, Sweden OR... (thanks to Nico Cederlundini for the info) The Ducati Club of Sweden has made a CD with 23 tracks (1 is a song by the former chairman, 2 is commercials) with Ducatis that sing their bass through Contis and others. The contents are: 1. Let's go out and ride 2. 55/e '58 with open standard 3. 250 racer '65 with special 4. 350 Scrambler '71 with short Silentium 5. 350 XL Pantah '84 with modified Conti 2-1 6. Champion commercial 7. 450 racer '70 (Desmo) with special (Total winner of the Swedish National Classics '93. 8. 550 Supermono '93 with Termignoni dual outlet 9. 600 Pantah '83 with 2-1 10. 750 F1 '86 with Montjuich 2-1 (lovely bike!!!) 11. 750 Paso '90 with Aluminum 2-2 12. Pirelli Commercial 13. 851 Strada '90 with Modified standard 2-2 14. 900 Darmah '79 with 2-1 15. 900 "HPD" '78 with 2-2 16. 900 MHR '81 with NCR 2-1 17. 900SS x 2 '80/'90 with Conti 2-2/standard 2-1 18. Ducati Power (M. Werkelin) by Micke and The Desmos 19. 888 SP5 '93 with Termignoni carbon 2-2 20. M900 Monster '93 with Termignoni carbon 2-2 21. 907ie '92 with 2-2 22. 926 racer '93 with Termignoni special 2-2 23. Coming home All this on a good looking CD (it's all black with one of Dr. T's first drawings on the L-twin printed in gold. Printed inside the folder: "This record can be ordered from the Ducati Club of Sweden. Please send the equivalent of: SEK 60:- within Sweden SEK 70:- within Europe SEK 80:- worldwide To: Svenska Ducati Klubben c/o Peter Lindquist Lofotengatan 20, 5 tr S-164 33 KISTA SWEDEN or pay to Swedish Postgiro, account number 604452-3 Ducati enthusiasts are welcome to become members of the club. Membership costs SEK 200:-/year. Please pay to Postgiro, account number 4771371-4, and inform us of your address, telephone number, bike model, registration number, etc. You will receive the bimonthly "Cucciolo" magazine (Swedish edition only), and invitations to meetings and track sessions. Cover: Swedish summer sunset and a 900 MHR. All rights reserved Svenska Ducati Klubben Nico adds: "It's a ridiculous amount of money [ie., a pittance once exchanged for American dollars -- Editor] so if you want to support their work they don't mind you paying a bit more for the CD (my own opinion)." ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 43. Shameless quickie product endorsements. ** Meguiar's products to clean your Duck. From: Josh J Fielek Consumer's Reports (June 1988) says that Meguiar's Car Cleaner, a paste wax, is the least abrasive wax with the best gloss and durability ratings. They recommend it for a new car. Good stuff. Get it. Use it. From: Ed Guzman I use the Meguiar's Glazing Polish. Make sure the scoot is spotless, then Glaze, then wax. The glaze gives the shine and the wax protects the shine. That and you get to run your hands over that sexy Italian bodywork a coupla extra times! ** Motoport raingear From: Jon Wright I have the Motoport Atlas jacket and Ciano pants. The jacket is very bulky and warm and makes an excellent commute suit. It's got body armor, too. The only problem is I don't even wanna think about packing it, so I'll be getting the Ciano jacket to match before any big trips. ** Battery Tender(tm) From: Michael Nelson If the battery gets severely discharged, a 45 minute blast on the freeway won't recharge it more than superficially. IMHO, the Battery Tender is the best solution, and others on this list who use them on THEIR Ducks with puny charging systems will probably testify in behalf of the Battery Tender. They're only $49.95, and useful on ALL your batteries, both cars and bikes. ** Belstaff Dri Bika rain skin From: Godfrey DiGiorgi It pulls on easily over my leathers and other gear. It's red white and blue for visibility. And I'm happy to report that it is totally, utterly, completely waterproof. $100 well spent. The DriBika I obtained is an all synthetic, two-piece suit. I had a waxed cotton suit in the past and it's too bulky and messy for my needs. This is a light, rain skin only garment for pulling over my regular leathers (along with totes and rain mittens or waterproof gloves). ** "On Board at Laguna Seca & Road Atlanta" One of the things I picked up at the track was the first tape from Doug Polen's production company, Hyperformance International, Inc. which features the '93 Superbike races at Laguna Seca and Road Atlanta. Those watching the AMA Superbike championship carefully last year might have noted that Doug's bike was equipped with an on board camera for all the races, and that none of the video coverage presented to date was taken from Doug's bike... This is the first product of that effort, with some additional inset footage supplied by the Burke-Despain production crew's trackside cameras and Doug's commentary/narration for each of the races. I've now had the pleasure of watching both races a couple of times, seen from Doug's bike viewpoint. This is amazing stuff! I highly recommend this tape to any roadrace enthusiasts. The video quality is generally first rate, Doug's commentary is insightful and amusing (even if he does repeat himself now and again... ;) and the Laguna Seca race in particular is fantastic: he got off to a mediocre start and worked his way through the field methodically, then ran into some equipment trouble and finally took the lead on the very last section of the last lap. The tape runs about 55 minutes for both races. I'm sure the tapes will be available at the AMA Nationals race concession stands and through the usual video distribution channels shortly, but for those who want to find them more quickly: Hyperformance International Inc. P.O. Box 50237 Denton, Texas 76206 What I can add is that the number is 800.977.2323 (or 817.381.2300), that it is $29.95 plus $2.90 shipping/handling. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44. Nifty tricks, tips and mods every self-respecting Ducati owner ought to know about (yes there will be a test). ** removing fork caps on upside-down forks From: Mike Lee A neat trick for those who have upside-down forks (courtesy Jim Brewer). The biggest problem servicing them is removing the fork cap, which is secured with a locknut, which in turn is sheathed by the preload spacer. The manual calls for a special tool ($260) to force the spacer down, allowing access to the locknut. It seems almost impossible without it. Well, a trick is to put a hook into each of the two holes drilled into the preload spacer. Then run a tie-down through the axle end to the hooks. Crank down on the tie-down, and viola, the spring is compressed and reveals the locknut. I thought it was pretty ingenious. ** Studs on your cush drive Make sure to Loctite the studs on the cush drive when you change sprockets. ** replacement air filter for 851 If you don't want to shell out mucho dinero for a genuine Fiamm part, run down to the local auto parts store and pick up either Purolator xx31153 or Fram CA3399. Both are meant for the '77 Porsche 924 2.0. The Fram version fits perfectly, while you'll need to trim the Purolator one a tad. ** yet another way to check the alignment of your rear wheel while adjusting your chain From: "Carl Liebold" I've always aligned my wheels the way I saw Rich Oliver do it on his TZ250 years ago. I think this way is standard "racer" practice. Put bike on service stand. Take about 15 feet of string (elastic thread works best!). Tape center of string to back of the rear wheel about 4" off the ground. Bring the ends of the string to the front of the bike. Tie the ends of the string to some movable objects (I use a pair of jack stands), at the same height (4"). The idea is to set the strings so they are parallel and "just" in contact to the front edge rear tire by moving the jack stands. With the strings taped to the back of the rear tire, and "just" touching the front edge of the rear tire, they should make two parallel lines that run forward, passing along either side of the front tire. Now the alignment of the front and rear wheels can be easily observed by examining the clearance of the front wheel and the string on either side. Adjust the chain adjuster appropriately if necessary, and then recheck. It's a pain to do the first time, but then it gets easy. Use the thinnest, elastic thread you can find. Also, try rotating the rear wheel to several points to make sure you aren't just adjusting for uneven tire manufacture. And make sure the thread isn't on some bump of "mold seam" rubber or in a tread at the edge of the tire. This would screw up everything. Obviously, this method ignores how the chain and sprockets are aligned, and focuses on how the wheels and tires are aligned. I can imagine that having the sprockets and wheels aligned simultaneously may not be possible, and I'd rather have the wheels lined up. When using this procedure on my '92 750SS, a quarter turn of one of the chain adjusters is quite significant. When complete, the adjusters appear to be at even marks at either side of the bike, indicating adequate manufacturing. However, a quarter turns seams to effect the alignment significantly, but is just about invisible in relation to the adjuster marks. ** oil pressure gauge for air-cooled rubberbandheads When Greg Starr's oil light refused to impart the correct warnings (ie. it quit), Greg thought a real engine ought to have a real gauge -- so he went to the local auto parts store and bought a gauge with a flexible oil line and a "metric adapter." Ran him about $23. He's very happy with it and notes that when warm, the pressure's a little over 40 psi, and when ripping through canyons or unsuspecting parking lots it gets around 70 psi. Godfrey DiGiorgi warns that if you perform this mod, you need to keep a careful eye on leakage, either in the bourdon tube assembly inside the gauge head or at any of the fittings or on the tube. There are more points a mechanical gauge can fail it than the idiot light, so it would be wise to keep some blanking plugs around just in case. Rubber mount the gauge to be on the safe side. ** keep spare fuses somewhere other than the fuse box From: bethd@netcom.com (Beth Dixon) Ducati fuse box covers pop off whenever the bikes (at least the modern ones) go down on the left side. Of course, fuses scatter all over the place and are more often than not munched too badly to be reused. So, where does Ducati give you room to carry extra fuses? That's right, just below the ones you need in the same fuse box. Bzzzt. Without a 30 amp fuse (the master, the top one) and a 15 amp fuse (for the fuel pump, second one down) the bike won't go anywhere. If you don't travel with another Ducati so the downed bike has a ready supply of still-in-place fuses, its probably a good idea to carry at least a spare of each of these in the toolkit or a pocket. ** moisture on the covers of your spark plug covers Experiencing running on one cylinder on your 900ss? Has it been wet there? Even heavy dew? The metal covers on the spark plug wires can accumulate moisture and short out to the cylinder head. The covers can be removed easily without damage to the wires. ** bleeding the system of those infernal air bubbles From: Tom Dietrich Duc seems to breed air bubbles? If you have the screw turned all the way in, as I do, you need to back it out a bit before attempting to bleed the system. ** Perfect paint match for 750ss rubberbandheads From: Jon Wright I was doing some research in my issues of M'cyclist and ran across this tidbit for 750ss owners trying to match SFI Red. He managed to locate, after a fair bit of legwork, the following perfect match for touch-up work: Plasti-Kote-Toyota 3223 ** alternate source for Weber/Marelli ignition and injection components From: Ian Gunn It's not direct from Weber, but it bypasses Cagiva N.A. and the markup you pay for buying Weber commodities as Ducati parts. They'll get a serious order (like 4 injectors) flown in from Weber Italy. Weber USA are impossible to deal with, even for those like TWM who are in the business. TWM Induction 325D Rutherford St. Goleta, CA 93117. (805) 967-9478. Ask for Gary Pollard ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 45. PRODUCT WARNINGS! ** Ohlins steering dampers Subject: Ohlins dampers Dear Most Valued Customer, This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Ohlins Racing AB in Sweden has determined that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in the case of certain steering dampers, marked by part number SD1001/1002 and SD2001/2002. The steering dampers were manufactured from May 1993 to April 1994 and were sold during the same period. The steering dampers due for remedy can be identified since they are marked with the product name (i.e. SD1001 together with the product week:V321- V413). The marked date stands for the year and week (for example, V334=1993 in week 34). Please note the dates outside the period week 21 in 1993 to week 13 in 1994 are not applicable for this recall. The steering dampers show an unacceptable friction level, which influences the function of the product. The result can cause very hard damping and an un-smooth feeling in the function of the steering damper, and in a severe case could cause loss of control. You should not ride your motorcycle unnecessarily before the steering damper is dismantled from your motorcycle. We will remedy the defect without charge. We will replace the one-way valve, which cures the problem, and the service will take less than half an hour to perform. Please send your steering damper to Noleen Racing Inc., 16276 Koala Rd., Adelanto, CA 92301, or if inconvenient, please contact us at phone number (619) 246-5000 for assistance. If we have failed or are unable to remedy this defect without charge or within a reasonable amount of time, you may submit a complaint to the Administrator of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 400 Seventh St., S.W. Washington, DC 20590, or call the toll-free Auto Safety Hotline at (800) 424-9393. (Washington residents may call 366-0123.) Yours Sincerely, Clark Jones, President Noleen Racing Inc. Adelanto, CA ** Two-piece Marvic wheels on Ducati 900sl's (Superlights) These are the ones with the aluminum rims and magnesium centers. The centers are bolted to the rims using ultra-trick bolts, instead of welded together. These bolts have to be torqued EVERY SIX MONTHS according to the factory service manuals (not the owner's manual). Apparently, this isn't often enough as posters have had to have them covered under warranty. It seems that if they loosen, they can shift around in their holes enough to bang the hole out of round, ruining the wheel. If you have these wheels, find out what the proper torque for these bolts are and check them on a regular basis. Although the problem has only been reported on rears, check the fronts, too, to be on the safe side. If they're loose, take your 900sl to a dealer for inspection and possible warranty replacement. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 46. "What would you do for a 916?" A poster found this in his mailbox and asks, "Do you think I should take up the offer?": Allow me to introduce Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing. Your household has been selected by our marketing research department to participate in a highly attractive promotion. If you decide to take up our offer you will receive: * Ducati 916, taxed and insured * Full maintenance and tyres through a local dealer of your choice * Dayglo neon coloured leathers, boots and helmet of your choice * The opportunity to replace the bike with a comparable model every two years * Free membership of the international motorcycle club - Denizens of Doom To check whether you are eligible for this offer, please answer the following three simple questions. 1. You are in the pub with a group of friends. It's your round but Bob stands up and says "What are you all having?" Do you: a) Sit quiet. Bob's old enough and ugly enough to look after himself and if he wants to buy the beer, that's his lookout. b) Say "Hey, Bob sit down, it's my round" c) Sit quiet but buy the next round and get everyone nuts and crisps to make up. 2. You're out on a ride with your mates and you are leading. Twenty miles from the nearest garage you come across a Volvo Estate with two flat tyres. The driver and his family are standing at the side of the road. Do you: a) Change down a gear, twist open the throttle and give the driver the finger as you scream past. It serves the bastard right for driving a tank. b) Stop and see if you can help, ferry the car driver to the next garage leaving your mates to look after his wife and kids. c) Stop at the next phone and send out the breakdown service. 3. Dave, a friend, parks his bike outside your house while he goes shopping in town. He leaves the keys with you. It's a bike you've always wanted to ride so you take it out for a spin while he's away. At a junction you slip on gravel and drop the bike whilst almost stationary scratching the fairing and smashing an indicator lens. You realize you're not insured for the damage. Do you: a) Take the bike home and park it exactly where your friend left it and tell him some kids playing around the house knocked it over. He couldn't have put the sidestand up properly. b) Own up and offer to pay for the repairs when your friend gets back. c) Dash to the bike shop, pick up a new indicator lens and polish the scratches out as soon as you get back. If you answered a) to all of the above, you qualify for our special promotion. If you gave any other answer, it's unlikely that you'll be interested in our low cost leasing scheme and there's little point in you reading further. Lucifer de Ville's offer is a lifetime leasing agreement with nothing, that's right, NOTHING, to pay until you stop riding. All we require is that you commit your soul to Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing and carry out small tasks that may be requested of you from time to time. By answering a) to all the questions above, you have already shown that you are more than ready to face up to any of the tasks that we might ask you to carry out on our behalf. Please read through the attached contract, supplied in triplicate with a copy for Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing, a copy to be retained by yourself and a third copy for Al Mighty and Son Inc. This contract should be signed in blood and be witnessed by three fellow riders. Our representative, Damien, will be in your area next week and will call on you to help you finalize this contract. In the meantime if you have any queries or if you want to arrange a short test ride on the Ducati 916 please call our customer services department on our free phone number: 0800 666 666 We look forward to doing business with you. Luke de Ville He adds: "I've had a quick look through the contract. It's difficult to read being printed in 4pt Gothic Script but I think I've identified some of the pluses and minuses. Pluses: * New Bike every two years. * After I stop riding, permanent accommodation with excellent heating facilities supplied free of charge. * I get to go on rides with a group of riders called Horseman of the Apocalypse; sounds like fun. * Free membership of the DoD. I'm already a member so I wonder if I can get some sort of rebate Minuses: * Signing the contract in blood. Surely this is just biker's terminology for red ink? * You have to submit to an anal inspection once a year on 31st October by a representative of Lucifer de Ville Motorcycle Leasing. They reckon it's to check up on piles caused by uncomfortable bike seats. I'll try and a get this struck from the contract -- I'll be buggered if anyone's shoving anything up my arse! * You can't specify a Harley as a replacement bike. Apparently they're all ridden by Al Mighty and Son and their followers. (Do people really follow Harleys? I suppose that's another thread.) * A copy of the contract goes to Al Mighty and Son Inc. I don't see what they've got do with this scheme. Something in the contract mentions that this outfit has large offices in Rome, Italy of all places. I hope they're not something to do with the Mafia. Anyway the offer sounds good to me. One of my mates made some wise crack about it being paying on the forever and ever rather than the never, never but I think he's just jealous. Any of you guys out on the net heard of this scheme or got any advice?" ------------------------------------------------------------------------ END OF QUACKFAQ, VERSION 1.1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ HTML Version formatted by Michael Nelson ------------------------------------------------------------------------