carb problem?
Jerry Clair
darkclarity2k at yahoo.com
Tue Jul 31 18:17:23 PDT 2007
missing and back fire. sticking float?
Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote: That's correct. Several of us are running the FP Stage 3 kit with pods and performance exhaust with good results.
Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
----- Original Message -----
From: David Beard
To: Jerry Clair
Cc: Steve Northrop
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: carb problem?
Jerry - Yep, but remember that this Stage 1 jet kit will do you no good if you are putting on Pod filters.
Steve - Jerry has pod filters on order (should show up any day) so I recommended he order the Factory Pro Stage 3. That's what you are running, right?
Dave B
Jerry Clair wrote: look what I found. (It's a stage 1)
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2157.pdf
Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote: No, the slide moves up and down with engine load. the needle is attached to the slide. When the slide moves up a narrower part of the needle tip is in the fixed orifice, allowing more fuel. When the slide moves down, a fatter part of the needle tip goes into the orifice, lessening fuel flow. Changing the position of the clip in the needle changes the relative position of the needle tip in the fixed orifice. E.g. if you put the clip in the lowest (#5) groove, the needle would be higher in the fixed orifice at the same slide height. This would give you a richer mid-range. The reason for the clip/washer thickness to duplicate the "nailhead" of the stock needle is to prevent vertical movement of the needle after installation in the slide. Try putting the Dynojet needle in the slide with just a clip on it, put the
white plastic retainer on top of it and hold the retainer down with your finger. Now grab the needle below and try and move it up and down. It will move quite a bit. The extra clip/washers act as spacers to prevent this. If the needle is free to move up and down in the slide like this, it kind of negates the precise placement of the clip in a groove because it's able to jump around all over the place.
Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Clair
To: Steve Northrop
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: carb problem?
Boy am I learning alot!
the nail head is what sets up the range of travel of the needle?
Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote: A washer and another clip, three washers, whatever. You must duplicate the
thickness of the nailhead on the stock needle or it will rattle up and down
in the slide. Dynojet jet numbers are stamped on the top of the jet, Keihin
jet numbers are stamped on the side. Dynojet says to use their #104 main
jets for a stock exhaust, the #108's for an aftermarket exhaust.
Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jameson, George E."
To: "Jerry Clair" ; "Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion"
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 7:13 AM
Subject: RE: carb problem?
> Try looking at this, these are the same carbs you have. Some of the
> pictures are missing and the airbox instructions pertain to this bike .
> But they are Keihin 36's. This kit manufacturer uses a total of three
> washers and 'e' clip position to position needles vertically. I don't
> know about 2 clips either. Break out your reading glasses keihin jet
> sizes are stamped on the jet.
> http://www.zrxoa.org/webpages/techinfo/carb/ivan/ivansinstallation.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Clair [mailto:darkclarity2k at yahoo.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:22 PM
> To: Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion
> Subject: Re: carb problem?
>
> 2 clips? WTF. How do I know if I have a 108?
> Pilots are at 2 1/2
>
> Steve Northrop wrote: The baseline
> installation is the clip in the second groove from the top. There needs
> to be a washer above the clip and another clip in the first groove,
> otherwise the white plastic retainer won't hold the needle down tightly.
> When replacing the white plastic retainer, make sure the feet don't
> cover the slide lift hole in the bottom of the slide. The main jet
> should be a 108 and the pilot screws 2 1/2 turns out. Again, these are
> the baseline Dynojet installation instructions.
>
> Steve in Western NY
> '96 GPZ1100
> '02 Daytona 955i
> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Clair
> To: Steve Northrop
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 4:29 PM
> Subject: Re: carb problem?
>
>
> The clip is on the 3rd from the top. hmm, is that right?
>
> Steve Northrop wrote:
> That's the needle that dangles from the slide. You can see it's tapered
> at the end. The slide raises and lowers the needle relative to a fixed
> orifice depending on engine load. The main jet is below the needle and
> provides the fuel that is below the fixed orifice. Whenever I have the
> carbs off and the slides out, I take a little crocus cloth
> (very,very fine sandpaper) and smooth out any rough spots,
> especially on the "wings". Inside the slide is a white plastic
> retainer that just lifts out, then the needle can come out. If the
> needle has 'slittle grooves at the top with an "e" clip in one of
> them, a jet kit has been installed. If the needle just has a nail
> head, it's stock.
>
> Steve in Western NY
> '96 GPZ1100
> '02 Daytona 955i
> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Clair
> To: blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 3:27 PM
> Subject: Re: carb problem?
>
>
> Ah! Master Steve,
> The problem is that I don't know WTF I have. Nor do I know
> very much of what I'm doing.
> 1. But I sure can compare the springs from my stocker to No.2.
> When I pull the diaphram up & out (thats the main Jet dangling
> off the slide -right?)
>
> 2. Shouldn't the slides be very smooth in operation?
>
> 3. um, what else is down inside there?
>
> blackgpz at rochester.rr.com wrote: Jerry, did you say you
> thought there was a Dynojet kit installed? If
> so, compare the diaphragm springs to the stock ones. If they're
> shorter
> than stock they are NFG. These kits are notorious for an off-idle
> bog
> if you use their springs. Replacing with the stock springs
> solves the
> problem.
>
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry Clair
> Date: Thursday, July 19, 2007 12:46 pm
> Subject: carb problem?
> To: Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion
>
>> OK, so I'm not the best mechanic, when it comes to carbs.
>> Bye-bye box. wow, what a pain and poor design. and the
>> reed valves, really are not like a PVC? I know we just talked
>
>> about this but whats a good wat to plug it?
>>
>> So, I yank the suckers off, and found the pilots at 3 turns,
>> instead of 2 to 2.5 turn, no biggy. Idles great now. The
> slides
>> made different sounds from one another and could be smoother.
>> Diaphrams intact and everything basically very clean.
>> Still, any acceleration and she bogs to a stall.
>>
>> So, I'm considering taking the known good carbs off of
>> bike 1, and test bike 2 even though, the test will not have
>> the air box and using the muzzy as opposed to the stock
>> one bike 1.
>>
>> I'm considering welding a handle to the darn tank at this
> point!
>> Think I should empty the tank first. J/K
>>
>> Jer
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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