[David Beard]

I second everything Steve said. Even if carbs look clean, remove and 
clean the idle jets with solvent and compressed air and make sure they 
are stock (35 I think, not 135 ) and blow compressed air through all the 
passage in the carbs you can find. Adjusting float heights is not too 
difficult if you have a manual and measure carefully. Sometimes a little 
grit under the float valve or a worn ring around the tip of the valve 
will keep it from seating and fill one of the bowls with gas, so make 
sure the seats and float valves are in good shape. Also check the carb 
boots for cracks and make sure you have all vacuum ports on the carbs 
that do not have a vacuum line attached, plugged.

At what rpm and throttle position are you feeling the bog? For instance 
is it only at full throttle in the 2500 to 3500 rpm range or is it at 
1/4 or 1/2 throttle as well? Is there a slight improvement or does it 
get slightly worse when the bike reaches operating temp? Adjusting carbs 
is about 80% science and 20% art. Once everything else has been checked 
and verified, a good carb sync may help as well.

Dave B

Steve Northrop wrote:
>
>
> So here's a checklist:
> 110 Main jet
> 135 Pilot jet
> Float height 18-20mm
> No holes in diaphragms (hold them up to the light to look for holes)
> Pilot screws 2 turns out
> Stock diaphragm springs
> No vacuum leaks
> Good plugs
>
> If all this checks out, you should be good to go.
>
>