Bogging

[Steve Northrop]

If all that stuff checks out then you have to start looking for something 
out of the ordinary. However, it still comes up vacuum leak for me. Are all 
the diaphragms seated properly under their hats?
All's ya got is fuel and ignition and if it's not fuel then it's ignition. 
Coils rarely go bad. Could be a bad plug wire. Or a bad plug. Just because 
they're new doesn't mean they're good. Starting to run out of ideas.

Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
'08 KLR 650
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ben millies" <ben_millies at hotmail.com>
To: <gpzlist at micapeak.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 9:19 PM
Subject: RE: Bogging




 --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: darkclarity2k at yahoo.comTo: 
gpzlist at micapeak.comDate: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 04:59:37 -0700Subject: Re: 
bogging issueI am curious what the others will say to this one. kinda sounds 
like maybe it was jetted wrong. -like too many washers orclipped in the 
wrong groove. Yet, you have a standard air box. I hope that the diaphram 
springs are the originals  if notI have the set Dave gave to me.I'm not EVEN 
going to ask how much the spun bearing cost ya.      Jerry  ----Jerry, I 
sent the crank and rods out to have them machined/replaced. Total for the 
crank and one rod replaced was $378 w/shipping Not too bad if you ask me. I 
did have the head gone thru and freshened up while the crank was gone. That 
cost $180  Throw in $80 for new valve shims and here we are!I did all the 
labor myself so that just took a couple of evenings after work. $0  ;) 
Ben  --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: blackgpz at rochester.rr.comTo: 
gpzlist at micapeak.comDate: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 10:14:55 -0400Subject: Re: Ben, 
Did you check the pilot jet as well? It should be a #135. Check the free 
length of the diaphragm springs. Stock is 4". If they are 3 1/4", then they 
are out of a Dynojet kit and need to be replaced with stock ones. This is a 
known cause of an off-idle hesitation you describe. Last, I would check the 
float heights. Low speed operation is sensitive to this so they need to be 
close to spec, 18-20mm I believe. I'll assume the needles are stock.     Set 
the pilot screws to 2 turns out from lightly seated. If the diaphragms don't 
have any holes in them and there are no other vacuum leaks (boots bolted 
tightly to the head, clamps tight around carbs, no open vacuum taps for the 
petcock and KLEEN air valve), it should run with no problems.     Did it 
idle OK? Would it hesitate when you blipped the throttle with no load? I'm 
not sure I know what you mean when you say it is loading up with fuel. To me 
that means if you let it idle it would foul itself out and eventually quit. 
Another tip from my experience is once you foul a plug, it needs to be 
replaced. Cleaning it doesn't work and the bike won't run right until you 
put in a new one(s). So here's a checklist:110 Main jet  check135 Pilot jet 
#35 check Float height 18-20mmNo holes in diaphragms (hold them up to the 
light to look for holes) checkPilot screws 2 turns out  checkStock diaphragm 
springs checkNo vacuum leaks checkGood plugs check  If all this checks out, 
you should be good to go. Steve in Western NY'96 GPZ1100'02 Daytona 955i'08 
KLR 650"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White----Steve, It idles fine. When I 
blip or even ease into the throttle at any rpm, with load or without load, 
its like it loads up with fuel so bad it causes an engine miss.  Even if I 
turn the idle screw up too much, it wont idle correctly.  Ben   --Forwarded 
Message Attachment--From: davidebeard at comcast.netTo: 
gpzlist at micapeak.comDate: Sun, 20 Jul 2008 10:56:03 -0500Subject: Re: I 
second everything Steve said. Even if carbs look clean, remove and clean the 
idle jets with solvent and compressed air and make sure they are stock (35 I 
think, not 135 ) and blow compressed air through all the passage in the 
carbs you can find. Adjusting float heights is not too difficult if you have 
a manual and measure carefully. Sometimes a little grit under the float 
valve or a worn ring around the tip of the valve will keep it from seating 
and fill one of the bowls with gas, so make sure the seats and float valves 
are in good shape. Also check the carb boots for cracks and make sure you 
have all vacuum ports on the carbs that do not have a vacuum line attached, 
plugged. At what rpm and throttle position are you feeling the bog? For 
instance is it only at full throttle in the 2500 to 3500 rpm range or is it 
at 1/4 or 1/2 throttle as well? Is there a slight improvement or does it get 
slightly worse when the bike reaches operating temp? Adjusting carbs is 
about 80% science and 20% art. Once everything else has been checked and 
verified, a good carb sync may help as well. Dave B---Dave, it bogs ant any 
and all rpm. Blip or turn the throttle and it will want to die. There is no 
change with engine temp.I know it has to be something simple. Ben Steve 
Northrop wrote:>>> So here's a checklist:> 110 Main jet> 135 Pilot jet> 
Float height 18-20mm> No holes in diaphragms (hold them up to the light to 
look for holes)> Pilot screws 2 turns out> Stock diaphragm springs> No 
vacuum leaks> Good plugs>> If all this checks out, you should be good to 
go.>>
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