headlight rewiring with relay

[Julian Solomensky]

William,

Did you use a light meter of some sort to measure the brightness at a fixed distance and voltage?  What was your methodology?

As for using multiple relays, I did it only because I was running a higher wattage bulb and was worried about frying the stock wiring.  

I also had an issue of frying those bulbs.  They'd last anywhere from 3-5 weeks each time.  I realized the gpz puts out close to 15V when charging, thus running the bulb hotter.  I eventually devised a simple voltage dropping circuit to absorb about 2 V.  That worked for a number of years until one day I return from a trip and see smoke coming from under the gas tank.  My ceramic wirewound resistors had crumbled due to all the heat and vibration and the electrical tape insulation was getting hot.... very hot.

Fortunately, no fire, but I did away with the resistors shortly after.  I installed a headlight modulator.  Not only did that serve the function of modulating the bulb, but also absorbed some of the voltage.


For the new bike, I picked up an overpriced fuse/distribution block - a centech ap-1.  It's rated at 60 amps.  I thought about just running an 8 gauge wire from the battery directly to it (under the seat).  It's a distance of about 3-4 feet after all the routing.  I don't like this idea too much.  I will ultimately run a 60 or 70 amp fuse right at the battery, then wire the block via a high capacity relay (panasonic 12v 70 amp relay, p/n CB1AH-12V).  This is an automotive/bosch style relay, but rated at 2x the current.







Thursday, March 13, 2008, 9:11:06 PM, William wrote:

> Pete / Julian,

> Thanks for the replies.  Apparently, a little voltage drop goes a LONG way
> in reducing luminescence.  See below.


Best regards,
 Julian                            mailto:jsolo at solo-tek.com