airbox

Thu May 14 22:55:57 PDT 2009

Through the main air inlet, take a look closely there is a "large" air inlet
on the bottom or back of the airbox, I forget where, too many bikes over the
years.

-----Original Message-----
From: gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com [mailto:gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com] On
Behalf Of Jonathon Jay
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:49 PM
To: johnsoliday at msn.com; andyburkard at yahoo.com; Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion;
blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
Subject: RE: airbox

So if I plug all 3 holes, how will the engine get air?

Regards- 

J

What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~

> From: johnsoliday at msn.com
> To: annihilator1100 at hotmail.com; andyburkard at yahoo.com;
gpzlist at micapeak.com; blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> Subject: RE: carb take 2
> Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:49:40 -0600
> 
> Some DJ kits supply a drill and you enlarge the air bleed hole in the
slide
> by drilling it through with the slightly larger drill bit. I believe this
> makes the slides move upward faster for quicker throttle response as
vacuum
> is what pulls the slides up, not your throttle hand. Maybe that's only in
> the stage 3 kit (I dunno as my bike is bone stock with all the CA air
> pollution stuff). My DJ stage 3 kit for an FJ1100 came with the drill bit.
> The air box holes are for crankcase gases to get returned to the engine
and
> burnt. You can probably block them off or leave them open probably won't
> make a difference.
> 
> Have Fun, remember it's a hobby ;-)
> 
> John
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com [mailto:gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com]
On
> Behalf Of Jonathon Jay
> Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:51 PM
> To: andyburkard at yahoo.com; Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion;
> blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> Subject: RE: carb take 2
> 
> 
> Well, I figured out what you meant by clips...on the needle. I'm following
> the DJ instructions by using the 108 mains and clip in second position. I
AM
> NOT using their supplied springs.
> 
> I drilled out the plugs, now just to clean the insides and re-assemble.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.
> 
> I was recently told to drill the slides? DJ makes no mention of this, what
> did y'all mean by drilling the slides? DJ doesn't mention it, so what will
> happen if I don't?
> 
> 
> 
> 2.
> 
> Also, I did the reed block off plates. My airbox has 3 holes for hoses.
> Should I plug them all, do I leave some open? Details, please.
> 
> Regards- 
> 
> J
> 
> What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
> ~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 11:26:22 -0700
> > From: andyburkard at yahoo.com
> > Subject: Re: carb take 2
> > To: gpzlist at micapeak.com; blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > 
> > 
> > What Steve said...
> > 
> > Um, Jon, hate to say this but if you're asking questions like "what's a
> shim, clip, 108..." you may want to get some help.
> > 
> > it's really not hard to do, but it is tedious. The key is what Steve
said
> at the end - every bike is different and what worked for me may not for
your
> in terms of jet sizes, where to put shims, etc.
> > 
> > what i described worked wonderfully for me, and the nice thing about the
> dynojet kit is that it comes with a free dyno run coupon which can help
dial
> in where Steve is saying take it out and ride in those RPM ranges. call
your
> local dealers and ask them if they'll take the coupon, or i think there
may
> even be a link on the coupon for participating dealers in your area.
> > 
> > I had my carbs on and off 4 or 5 times, and did about 3 dyno runs in all
> before i had mine dialed in. yes, keeping the stock air box does make this
> process a total PITA, but once you're done, you'll be done. patience,
> grasshopper...
> > 
> > have fun!
> > andy b
> > 
> > --- On Wed, 5/13/09, Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
> > 
> > > From: Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com>
> > > Subject: Re: carb take 2
> > > To: "Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion" <gpzlist at micapeak.com>
> > > Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2009, 6:01 PM
> > > The main jets have the number stamped
> > > on them. The clips are the little e-clips included in the
> > > kit, the shims are the little washers included in the kit.
> > > Yes the bike will run well with the stock diaphragm springs
> > > and the Dynojet parts. You can adjust the pilot screws
> > > without removing the carbs. If you need to make a needle or
> > > mainjet change, the carbs should be removed. Do not use an
> > > adhesive on the diaphragms. You can use a little Vaseline to
> > > hold the edges in before you replace the carb top.
> > > 
> > > Steve in Western NY
> > > '96 GPZ1100
> > > '08 KLR 650
> > > '08 Tuono Factory
> > > "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: Jonathon Jay 
> > > To: blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > > ; Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion 
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 8:16 PM
> > > Subject: RE: carb take 2
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Ok, now a couple questions. 
> > > I wouln't know a 108 main if it bit me in the ass.
> > > Same for this talk of clip and shim.
> > > What I have is what was included in my DJ kit.
> > > As long as I use my stock springs can I make it run
> > > well with the DJ supplied parts?
> > > 
> > > Will I have to remove carbs every time I make
> > > adjustments?
> > > 
> > > Lastly, I am cleaning the carbs too. I very
> > > carefully pulled the rubber diaphrams out, they're about the
> > > circumfrence of a lime and the needle goes in the middle.
> > > There appeared to be some mild adhesive helding them in.
> > > When it is time to reinstall, what do I use for adhesive?
> > > 
> > > Regards- 
> > > 
> > > J
> > > 
> > > What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
> > > ~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > From: blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > > > To: gpzlist at micapeak.com
> > > > Subject: Re: carb take 2
> > > > Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:04:23 -0400
> > > > 
> > > > >>Don't screw around with the pilot
> > > screws if it idled right before you 
> > > > >>put the kit in. All the screws do is
> > > affect mixture up to about 1200 rpm 
> > > > >>or so.
> > > > 
> > > > This is not correct. The pilot screws affect
> > > air:fuel up to about 4000 rpm 
> > > > so it is important to get these right for good
> > > part-throttle cruise. You 
> > > > must have the ability to adjust them so remove
> > > the plugs covering them as 
> > > > outlined in the jet kit.
> > > > My recommendation FWIW:
> > > > Install 108 main jets (as you have an
> > > aftermarket exhaust, particularly the 
> > > > large headpipe SS2r)
> > > > Do not change the pilot jets if you are keeping
> > > the stock airbox.
> > > > Set the pilot screws at 2 1/2 turns out from
> > > lightly bottomed. Your 
> > > > adjustment range is 1 turn to 4 turns out. 2
> > > 1/2 turns out is the middle of 
> > > > the range and a good starting point.
> > > > Drill the slides - be careful.
> > > > Put an e-clip in the second groove from the top
> > > of each needle. Put a shim 
> > > > washer on top of that, then put another e-clip
> > > in the first groove to retain 
> > > > the shim washer. This clip-shim-clip
> > > arrangement duplicates the thickness of 
> > > > the "nailhead" of the stock needle so there
> > > will be no up & down play of the 
> > > > needle in the slide when you put the white
> > > plastic retainer over it. Make 
> > > > sure none of the "feet" of the white plastic
> > > retainer cover the slide lift 
> > > > hole.
> > > > DO NOT install the kit supplied diaphragm
> > > springs. Reinstall the stock ones.
> > > > Put it back together and fire it up.
> > > > There are 3 circuits in the carburetor. The
> > > main jet is used in the 7000 to 
> > > > redline RPM range, the needle controls the
> > > 4000-7000 rpm range and the pilot 
> > > > screw from idle to about 4000 rpm. This is
> > > simplified a bit as there is some 
> > > > overlap but for adjustment purposes, these are
> > > ranges each have the most 
> > > > effect on.
> > > > Start with the main jet. You must get this one
> > > right first. Take it out and 
> > > > run it in the 7000 and up range. I know it's
> > > hard because of the speed 
> > > > involved but what you are looking for is good
> > > throttle response, it pulls 
> > > > hard and none to maybe a little blue smoke.
> > > > Next is the needle. Again, run it in the
> > > 4000-7000 rpm range. Again you are 
> > > > looking for good throttle response, pulls hard
> > > and makes a good transition 
> > > > through 7000 rpm.
> > > > Last is the pilot screws. What you are striving
> > > for is smooth running at a 
> > > > steady 4000 rpm in second gear. If it runs
> > > smooth from the git-go, turn the 
> > > > screws in a half turn at a time until it begins
> > > to surge and buck, then back 
> > > > them out a half turn so you have the leanest
> > > setting the bike runs smoothly 
> > > > at. If it surges from the start, back the
> > > screws out a half turn at a time 
> > > > until it just goes away.
> > > > Everybody's bike is different and some
> > > adjustments may need to be made to 
> > > > tune your particular bike. The above is a good
> > > starting point.
> > > 
> > >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > > Insert movie times and more without leaving
> > > HotmailR. See how.
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> HotmailR goes with you. 
>
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
> _Mobile1_052009
> 

_________________________________________________________________
HotmailR has ever-growing storage! Don't worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_Storage1_052009