------------------------------ Subject: 13. Wrenching Technical "We wrench because we're cheap. We wrench because we don't want someone else's hands on the bike. We wrench because we like to fiddle with the guts of the thing in winter. We wrench because we love smearing grease on things that don't need it. We wrench because the Motor Company tells us not to." -- Penny "We wrench because we ain't got no money." -- Davey D We also want to know how to get 'em started again if they break down in the middle of Nowhere, South Dakota. "Get the factory service manual from your local dealer - the best $25 you'll spend on your ride. There's really nothin' you can destroy thru normal everyday type activities. Good luck & happy wrenchin' =:-> " -- Strang "Then get a comfortable stool and sit down with the manual and the bike. Read the descriptions in the book and locate everything on the bike. Start simple. Take something off, then put it back on again. Change the oil. Change the tranny fluid. Take the plugs out and clean them. From here go to harder things. Read the book. Talk to the bike. The bike will tell you what she needs if you listen and learn." -- Oldman1 "Get the factory parts manual as well. It is invaluable for showing how things come apart and go back together. Having the right part number when you go to the dealer saves a lot of aggravation by avoiding getting the wrong part. There is a reason that some people work the parts counter and not in the shop, not all of them, but enough." -- Putt ------------------------------ Subject: 14. Dyna Frame Technical Much has been written about the Dyna Glide frame. It seems that the design criteria for this was: a) Lowered cost b) Traditional styling (Bikers complained that the FXR looked like a Japanese motorcycle) c) Reduced vibration at speed All of these criteria were met. Traded away for these goals were frame rigidity, handling and the ability to handle high torque applications. Alarmingly, these frames break when used with high power motors. Mitch Herzog reports using a torsion bar that locks the transmission to the bottom of the engine cases with good results (or a lack of bad results). ------------------------------ Subject: 15. Bad Vibes Technical The following testimonial on the ABT Balancers vs. the Fisher was posted by Cuda. I put [ABT balancers] on my Springer last summer. I noticed a difference - less "double vision" in my mirrors. I can tell what kinda vehicle is behind me now, at least 'til I get up around 70 mph, then it gets harder. One of the wrenches at the shop has the Fishers on his Springer. He tried mine out with the Balance Masters & was pissed 'cause he had spent a lot more money & didn't get as much of a noticeable difference. ------------------------------ Subject: 16. Rake and Trail Technical Rake is the angle between the headset tube and a vertical line. Increasing the rake will move the front tire farther from the bike. Rake is measured in degrees, and is a frame specification. To visualize trail, draw an imaginary line along the path of the headset tube to the ground. Measure from this point to the center of the tire patch. This is trail, and is measured in inches. The amount of rake is significant in determining a motorcycle's handling characteristics. In general, more rake provides greater straight line stability, less rake makes the bike more responsive. Larger values of trail also create more straight line stability. This is why the forks on a sportbike are more vertical than those of a cruiser. Visualize the wheels of a shopping cart for an illustration of a machine with zero rake and a lot of trail. Exciting handling but zero straight line stability. ------------------------------ Subject: 17. Tire Specifics Technical The entire following section is Copyright 1994, Joshua J. Fielek. It has been edited for size only. The Mystical art of Tire Reading -Or- It's black, it's round, and it goes on the wheel. There are a few basic elements to consider when looking at tires. The type of tire, the size, the profile, and the aspect ratio are all elements that can affect the behavior of the tire, and thus the behavior of the bike. We'll take these elements and go through them, and the effect that they can have on your bike. The most apparent difference between tires is the size and aspect ratio. These are indicated by the numbers on the side of the tire, usually something along the lines of "120/80V-16" or "4.50H-16". There is also a alphanumeric system that would look something like "MR80H-16". So, what do all these numbers mean? Let's take a look at the most common designation, the metric system for tires. This is the one that reads "120/80V-16". This type of designation is the most commonly used nowadays, and would break down as follows: 120/80V-16 The "120" is the nominal width of the tire, in millimeters. The "80" is the aspect ratio, expressed as a percentage of the width. The "V" is the speed rating for the tire. The "16" is the diameter of the wheel that the tire is constructed for. So, we can look at a tire and read a little bit of the code. But how do the numbers interrelate? Here's the scoop -- The nominal width is approximately how wide the tire is at the widest part of the tread. In this case, the width is about 120 mm. There is some variance from tire maker to tire maker, and from brand to brand, so one tire may be 124 mm wide, while another may be 118 mm. The aspect ratio is approximately how tall the tire is in relationship to its width. Thus, a 120/80 tire is about 95 mm tall, from the bead to the tread surface. The speed rating indicates at what maximum speed the tire is considered safe for continuous use. In this instance, the V stand for speeds up to 149 m.p.h. A table of speed ratings is listed below. The last number is the diameter of the wheel that the tire is intended for. In this case, we are talking about a 16 inch rim for the tire. The second example above reads "4.50H-16". This is the so called American system, and reads as follows - 4.50 -- the nominal width of the tire in inches. In this case, about 4.5 inches, or about 120 mm. H -- The speed rating, in this case indicating a tire safe up to 130mph. 16 -- This tire is intended for a 16 inch rim. The American system is a little quirky when it comes to aspect ratio. Generally, a tire is a high profile tire, with about a 90% aspect ratio, unless the width is indicated with a ".10" or ".60" designation. This indicates a lower profile tire, on the order of 75-85 percent. Thus, a 4.5 inch tire with a 85 percent aspect ratio would be shown as a 4.60. A 4.0 inch low profile tire would be a 4.10. The last method of tire designation is the British system, which is shown above as "MR80S-16". This breaks down like so -- MR -- This is a letter code indicating the width of the tire. In this instance, MR indicates a 120mm tire. 80 -- Once again, the aspect ration, expressed as a percentage of the width. H -- The speed rating, once again for 130mph sustained running. 16 -- The diameter of the wheel that this tire is intended for. Since the British system uses an alpha code for the tire width, a table is included below to indicate what metric and American widths are included. The table also includes the recommended rim widths for those tire widths. Here's all the tables I've been speaking of: Speed Ratings: Unrated 95mph S 112mph T 118mph H 130mph V 149mph Z above 149mph Tire Size Conversions: Permissible Rim Widths Metric Width Standard Standard Alpha Numeric (In Inches) (In mm) Width (in) Low Profile Codes 1.60, 1.85 70 2.75 - MG 1.60, 1.85 80 3.00 3.60 MH 1.60, 1.85 80 3.00 3.60 MH 1.85, 2.15 90 3.25 3.60 MJ 1.85, 2.15 90 3.50 4.10 ML 2.15, 2.50 100 3.75 4.10 MM 2.15, 2.50, 2.75 110 4.00 4.60 MN 2.15, 2.50, 2.75 110 4.25 4.25/85 MP 2.15, 2.50, 2.75 120 4.50 4.25/85 MR 2.15, 2.50, 2.75 120 4.75 5.10 MS 2.50, 2.75, 3.00 130 5.00 5.10 MT 2.75, 3.00, 3.50 140 5.50 - MU 3.00, 3.50 150 6.00 - MW 3.00, 3.50, 4.00 160 - - - Over 4.00 inches, I have no data. I will add it when I find it. Okay, so we've got the codes... but what does it mean? How does a 130/80-16 differ from a 120/80-16, if both can fit on the same size rim? First of all, the most obvious characteristic is the width of the tire. The width, in concert with the diameter of the wheel, determines the size of the contact patch. The size of the contact patch in turn determines the load that the tire can bear, the amount of traction that will be available, how well the tire disperses water, and how much it resists steering inputs. The diameter of the wheel and tire, in addition to its effect on the contact patch, affects the steering and stability of the bike. A larger wheel will be more stable at speed, and more resistant to steering inputs. This is in part due to the greater gyroscopic effect, but another factor is the greater contact patch caused by the larger wheel. In essence, a larger diameter wheel creates a longer contact patch, which requires more leverage to move. The aspect ratio of the tire is the distance from the bead of the tire to the tread surface divided by the nominal width. In general, it describes the profile of the tire's cross-section; a lower aspect ratio means a flatter profile. The profile of the tire is affected by several elements: the aspect ratio, the wheel width, the width of the tire, and the manufacturers intentions for the tire. The profile in turn affects the handling. A triangular profile will cause the bike to turn in more easily, but may make it a little more prone to tucking or falling into the turn. On the other hand, a rounder profile may be a little more difficult to turn in, but might have a little more linear response to steering inputs. This is to a great extent motorcycle dependent -- some bikes may like a particular tire, others may not. All in all, this means that a wider tire will tend to steer more heavily, but will also offer more traction. A larger rim will also steer slower, as will a broad, relatively flat tire. And that brings us to an important matter for tire buyers -- should I buy a radial tire? The answer is a firm "maybe". First of all, it helps to know the difference between a radial and a bias ply tire. To understand the difference, it helps to know a little bit about tire construction. A tire is nothing more than a bladder for air. It is made of rubber reinforced with some sort of fiber (once they were reinforced with canvas, now they're reinforced with kevlar -- times have changed). The rubber keeps the air in, and the fiber keeps the tire together, in addition to importing shape characteristics to the tire. The fibers are laid out in layers, each layer consisting of fibers lain in parallel, and impregnated with rubber. The final element is the bead, which is simply a wire put around the edge of the tire to help it clamp to the rim. The way these layers are placed on the tire is what determines whether the tire is a bias-ply or radial tire. In short, a radial is a tire where the threads in the ply are lain perpendicularly to the bead. This gives them the appearance of radiating from the center of the tire, thus the term radial. Bias ply tires are a little different, because the angle of the fibers is at a bias to the bead, usually at an angle of about 70 degrees. For reference, a "zero degree" layer would be a belt around the circumference of the tire. Okay, so what does it mean? Well, a bias-ply tire requires a minimum of two layers to support the sidewall and the tread. The layers are fairly stiff, and essentially must scissor against each other to flex. This makes the tire run hotter. A radial tire needs only one ply, and thus is not only softer, but runs much cooler, and weighs less to boot. Advantages all around -- lighter, cooler, more compliant. This means that not only can you run a softer compound for radials, but it will provide better grip since it can conform to the road better. Great! But wait! There's a catch -- radial tires require wider rims to support the same tire width. That means that a 120/80 bias ply tire would work on a 2.5 inch rim, but a 120/80 radial would need a 3.0 inch rim to support it properly. Why does a radial need a wider rim? In simplest terms, a radial tends to have a softer sidewall, and a wider rim with a similar aspect radial puts less load on the sidewall, causing it to distort less under load. Most radials are designed for wider wheels, and putting them on a narrower rim will distort the cross-section of the tire and affect the handling of the bike -- almost always negatively." Tech Hotline numbers for tire manufacturers: Avon 206.771.2257 Bridgestone 615.391.5155 Continental 201.471.8890 Dunlop 716.879.8258 Metzler 206.348.4000 Michelin 803.458.6053 Pirelli 800.722.1108 Yokohoma 908.526.9206 ------------------------------ Subject: 18. Shocks Technical Replace those Harley shocks now, they are crap. Koni, Progressive, White Brothers and Works make shocks that will greatly improve your Harley's handling characteristics. One good fellow whose name I've forgotten (if you're out there, lemmie know who to attribute this to) tells of raising his Dyna with good results using longer shocks and fork springs and a larger rear wheel. All in the pursuit of ground clearance and better handling. "Short shocks are a compromise between ride quality and ride height. You give up the former for the latter. You also give up shock travel, which negatively affects handling. If handling is more important than looks, then you want LONGER shocks." -- Christopher deHahn To lower an FX, Chris suggests: "Relocate the shock mounts on the swingarm and/or frame to change the swingarm angle. Use high quality stock length or longer shocks. You'll maintain ride quality and handling while lowering the bike, at the expense of it becoming easier to ground out when riding aggressively. Same for the forks...use shorter length fork tubes and progressive springs. You want to maintain the shock travel." ------------------------------ Subject: 19. Cam Specifications -- Evolution BT Technical A Few Brief Descriptions: Duration - The length of time a valve is kept open. Overlap - The amount of time both the intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously. Lift - The distance a valve rises. Bolt-in - A cam that does not require beefing up the valve train. This is generally considered to be less than .500 lift. Cams are deep science, but these are enough terms to let you bluff through most camshaft conversations. General Many articles on the stock INA camshaft bearing have been posted to r.m.h and the digest. It is highly recommended to swap it for a Torrington if you install an aftermarket cam. The Torrington has many more roller bearings than the INA, and the larger number of camshaft support points distributes the forces more evenly. It is generally agreed that the INA bearing will disintegrate with a non-stock cam, perhaps taking your motor with it. When replacing the camshaft you should also install adjustable pushrods. This will greatly aid any future work on your bike. "Aluminum pushrods are thicker and quieter than chrome-moly pushrods but not as rigid." -- Jon Boulle Cam Recommendations "The Andrews EV13 works very good with heavy bikes like the FLHT and FLT. It has a lot of torque in the 2000-3000 region but starts loosing power above 4500. The Crane 316 really works good with shaved heads, good carb and exhaust. With the right combination it will give 72-75 horses to the rear wheel but does give up some torque in the 2000-3000 region. Best for lighter bikes and Baggers that spend lots of time at high speeds. The Andrews EV3, EV27 and Crane 310. These are the best bolt-ins. Have good torque in the 2000-3000 region with plenty of pulling power. They run good as a bolt in-but with shaved heads, good carb and exhaust really make the bike run like the Motor Company should have done in the first place. They will give 65-70 horses with a good carb and exhaust." -- Leonard Pennock "Andrews has always ground their cams with very gentle ramps. This translates to less power than say Sifton cams with the same specs. They are now coming out with cams that have fairly quick ramps for better power which is the EV27, EV46, and EV59. If 2 cams have the same duration, but one has faster ramps, then the cam with the faster ramps will be the hotter cam. Leineweber and Katley also sell cams with extremely fast ramps. I run a Leineweber cam with specs that are so damn close to the EV46 that I would say Andrews was trying to copy it and it really is one hot cam. But Leineweber still opens the valves faster than the new Andrews cams. Their cams go from no lift to .053 in about 25-30 degrees." -- Bob Schleiger Jon Boulle supplied his cam specification notes for the remainder of this section. He has converted the Lienweber specs to .053 from .020 CAM GRIND TIMING DURATION LIFT ANDREWS EV1 INTAKE 12/34 226 .485 EXHAUST 34/12 226 .485 EV13 INTAKE 15/31 226 .485 EXHAUST 45/13 238 .495 EV27 INTAKE 20/36 236 .495 EXHAUST 44/16 240 .495 EV3 INTAKE 21/37 238 .495 EXHAUST 43/15 238 .495 EV46 INTAKE 25/41 246 .495 EXHAUST 49/17 246 .495 EV35 INTAKE 21/37 238 .495 EXHAUST 52/20 252 .530 EV5 INTAKE 28/44 252 .530 EXHAUST 52/20 252 .530 EV57 INTAKE 26/46 252 .530 EXHAUST 59/27 266 .560 EV59 INTAKE 26/46 256 .560 EXHAUST 56/24 260 .560 EV7 INTAKE 31/55 266 .560 EXHAUST 59/27 266 .560 EV79 INTAKE 31/55 266 .560 EXHAUST 64/32 276 .550 EV9 INTAKE 36/60 276 .550 EXHAUST 64/32 276 .550 BARTEL'S BP20 INTAKE 18/36 234 .490 EXHAUST 45/13 238 .495 BP40 INTAKE 21/37 238 .495 EXHAUST 48/20 248 .495 CARL'S SPEED SHOP CM495F INTAKE 19/47 246 .495 EXHAUST 50/16 246 .495 CM4 INTAKE 28/44 252 .495 EXHAUST 52/20 252 .495 CM5 INTAKE 19/47 246 .580 EXHAUST 50/16 246 .580 V-THUNDER EVO-2000 INTAKE 2/38 220 .480 EXHAUST 35/1 214 .456 EVO-3000 INTAKE 10/34 224 .500 EXHAUST 34/10 224 .500 EVO-3010 INTAKE 15/39 234 .500 EXHAUST 39/15 234 .500 EVO-3020 INTAKE 18/42 240 .500 EXHAUST 42/18 240 .500 EVO-3030 INTAKE 16/44 240 .530 EXHAUST 44/16 240 .530 EVO-3040 INTAKE 17/45 242 .510 EXHAUST 50/22 252. 510 EVO-3050 INTAKE 22/50 252 .510 EXHAUST 50/22 252 .510 EVO-3060 INTAKE 24/56 260 .585 EXHAUST 61/29 270 .585 CRANE 1-1103 INTAKE 16/40 236 .490 EXHAUST 43/19 242 .490 1-1000 INTAKE 19/43 242 .490 EXHAUST 48/24 252 .490 1-1001 INTAKE 24/48 252 .490 EXHAUST 57/25 262 .500 300-2 INTAKE 15/31 226 .460 EXHAUST 32/12 236 .470 300-2B INTAKE 12/34 226 .490 EXHAUST 41/15 236 .490 316-2/286-2 INTAKE 19/43 242 .480 EXHAUST 48/24 252 .490 326-2/296-2 INTAKE 24/48 252 .490 EXHAUST 57/25 262 .500 H306-2 INTAKE 28/54 262 .500 EXHAUST 69/23 272 .510 H310-2 INTAKE 23/63 266 .550 EXHAUST 68/28 276 .550 HARLEY-DAVIDSON 84-87 "V" INTAKE -6/38 212 .472 EXHAUST 25/-3 202 .472 88-91 "L" INTAKE 3/39 222 .495 EXHAUST 54/2 236 .495 84-93 "C" INTAKE -18/6 168 .462 EXHAUST 5/-18 168 .462 92-93 "N" INTAKE -2/30 208 .472 EXHAUST 31/-9 202 .472 BOLT-IN INTAKE 16/48 244 .480 EXHAUST 51/19 250 .480 OPTIMAL INTAKE 23/47 250 .530 EXHAUST 56/24 260 .530 EAGLE II INTAKE 26.5/50.5 257 .500 EXHAUST 55.5/31.5 267 .500 HEADQUARTERS HQ-23 INTAKE 19/47 246 .600 EXHAUST 52/24 256 .530 HQ-24 INTAKE 20/36 236 .500 EXHAUST 52/19 251 .500 HQ-25 INTAKE 18/38 236 .550 EXHAUST 42/14 236 .550 LEINWEBER RE-E-1 INTAKE 44/63 287 .470 EXHAUST 69/38 287 .470 E-2 INTAKE 43/66 285 .470 EXHAUST 67.5/37 285 .470 RE-E-3 INTAKE 47/71 298 .500 EXHAUST 77/41 298 .500 RE-E-31 INTAKE 43/67 290 .500 EXHAUST 73/37 290 .500 RE-E-S INTAKE 44/62 286 .502 EXHAUST 70/36 286 .502 POWERHOUSE 500P INTAKE 16/42 238 .500 EXHAUST 44/16 240 .500 530G INTAKE 18/44 242 .530 EXHAUST 50/16 246 .530 560V INTAKE 18/50 248 .560 EXHAUST 54/18 252 .560 RED SHIFT 575V2 INTAKE 25/54 259 .575 EXHAUST 63/18 261 .575 625V2 INTAKE 33/58 271 .625 EXHAUST 64/28 272 .625 653V2 INTAKE 24/50 254 .653 EXHAUST 58/16 254 .653 710V2 INTAKE 45/67 292 .710 EXHAUST 72/39 291 .710 785V2 INTAKE 38/61 275 .785 EXHAUST 72/27 279 .785 REV-TECH 05 INTAKE 16/32 228 .465 EXHAUST 41/17 238 .475 10 INTAKE 21/37 238 .475 EXHAUST 50/18 248 .480 20 INTAKE 22/46 253 .480 EXHAUST 59/19 258 .490 RIVERA EV-100 INTAKE 27/43 253 .467 EXHAUST 59/24 263 .467 S&S 502 INTAKE 28/40 248 .500 EXHAUST 50/24 254 .500 561 INTAKE 32/40 252 .560 EXHAUST 52/26 256 .560 562 INTAKE 34/55 269 .560 EXHAUST 60/29 269 .560 563 INTAKE 32/67 279 .560 EXHAUST 65/29 274 .560 SIFTON: 140-EV INTAKE 30/42 252 .450 EXHAUST 55/27 262 .450 141-EV INTAKE 29/41 250 .480 EXHAUST 58.5/26 264 .480 143-EV INTAKE 20/35 235 .500 EXHAUST 46/14 240 .500 144-EV INTAKE 27/46 253 .490 EXHAUST 56/22 258 .490 145-EV INTAKE 28/42 250 .460 EXHAUST 50/20 250 .460 ------------------------------ Subject: 20. Cam Specifications -- Shovelhead Technical Stroker Ray contributed the following specifications on available Shovelhead camshafts. Model No. Timing Duration Lift Timing Duration Lift Overlap Andrews: 1 Intake: 16/36 232 0.427 Exhaust: 36/16 232 0.427 Overlap: 32 10 Intake: 34/70 284 0.590 Exhaust: 70/34 284 0.590 Overlap: 56 2 Intake: 15/35 230 0.490 Exhaust: 35/15 230 0.490 Overlap: 30 3 Intake: 23/43 246 0.514 Exhaust: 43/23 246 0.514 Overlap: 46 6 Intake: 32/56 268 0.510 Exhaust: 56/32 268 0.510 Overlap: 64 9 Intake: 32/64 276 0.530 Exhaust: 64/32 276 0.530 Overlap: 64 A Intake: 21/43 244 0.450 Exhaust: 43/21 244 0.450 Overlap: 42 B Intake: 26/50 256 0.485 Exhaust: 50/26 256 0.485 Overlap: 52 BH Intake: 24/52 256 0.450 Exhaust: 52/24 256 0.450 Overlap: 48 C Intake: 37/61 278 0.525 Exhaust: 61/37 278 0.525 Overlap: 64 D Intake: 34/66 280 0.550 Exhaust: 66/34 280 0.550 Overlap: 68 F Intake: 16/48 244 0.450 Exhaust: 48/16 244 0.450 Overlap: 32 H Intake: 36/44 268 0.426 Exhaust: 44/36 268 0.426 Overlap: 70 J Intake: 21/41 242 0.405 Exhaust: 41/21 242 0.405 Overlap: 42 M Intake: 28/56 264 0.590 Exhaust: 56/28 264 0.590 Overlap: 56 Z Intake: 40/66 284 0.590 Exhaust: 66/40 284 0.590 Overlap: 80 Crane: 288B Intake: 24/48 252 0.450 Exhaust: 48/24 252 0.450 Overlap: 48 296A Intake: 20/44 244 0.479 Exhaust: 44/20 244 0.479 Overlap: 40 298B Intake: 29/53 262 0.450 Exhaust: 53/29 262 0.450 Overlap: 58 300H Intake: 26/42 248 0.455 Exhaust: 46/22 248 0.455 Overlap: 48 304B Intake: 32/56 268 0.485 Exhaust: 56/32 268 0.485 Overlap: 64 308B Intake: 26/50 256 0.516 Exhaust: 50/26 256 0.516 Overlap: 52 310B Intake: 31/55 266 0.525 Exhaust: 55/31 266 0.525 Overlap: 62 320B Intake: 36/60 276 0.550 Exhaust: 64/32 276 0.550 Overlap: 68 330B Intake: 41/65 286 0.575 Exhaust: 73/33 286 0.575 Overlap: 74 H288 Intake: 22/42 244 0.440 Exhaust: 42/22 244 0.440 Overlap: 44 H2882 Intake: 20/44 244 0.440 Exhaust: 49/25 254 0.440 Overlap: 45 Headquarters: HQ-0010 Intake: 14/50 244 0.535 Exhaust: 54/21 255 0.475 Overlap: 35 HQ-0012 Intake: 16/38 234 0.445 Exhaust: 55/15 250 0.445 Overlap: 31 HQ-0014 Intake: 15/38 233 0.490 Exhaust: 46/10 236 0.490 Overlap: 25 HQ-0016 Intake: 23/53 256 0.535 Exhaust: 59/18 257 0.475 Overlap: 41 Lienweber: L2S Intake: 42/64 286 0.450 Exhaust: 73/33 286 0.450 Overlap: 75 L3S Intake: 35/59 274 0.485 Exhaust: 63/31 274 0.485 Overlap: 66 L51 Intake: 44/68 292 0.520 Exhaust: 76/36 292 0.520 Overlap: 80 L61 Intake: 44/83 307 0.550 Exhaust: 77/35 292 0.520 Overlap: 79 J1 Intake: 34/76 290 0.430 Exhaust: 74/34 288 0.430 Overlap: 68 J2 Intake: 45/77 302 0.485 Exhaust: 73/36 289 0.485 Overlap: 81 J4 Intake: 44/82 306 0.502 Exhaust: 75/38 293 0.485 Overlap: 82 L1 Intake: 38/65 283 0.420 Exhaust: 69/34 283 0.420 Overlap: 72 L2 Intake: 40/70 290 0.460 Exhaust: 68/36 284 0.460 Overlap: 76 L3 Intake: 42/68 290 0.485 Exhaust: 74/36 290 0.485 Overlap: 78 L5 Intake: 41/71 292 0.520 Exhaust: 73/39 292 0.520 Overlap: 80 L6 Intake: 48/79 307 0.550 Exhaust: 73/39 292 0.520 Overlap: 87 L7 Intake: 49/83 312 0.575 Exhaust: 79/38 297 0.552 Overlap: 87 L8 Intake: 50/82 312 0.615 Exhaust: 80/42 302 0.575 Overlap: 92 Sifton: 101 Intake: 14/55 249 0.430 Exhaust: 54/15 249 0.430 Overlap: 29 104 Intake: 30/57 267 0.445 Exhaust: 55/28 263 0.445 Overlap: 58 105 Intake: 25/60 265 0.475 Exhaust: 63/23 266 0.475 Overlap: 48 106 Intake: 30/60 270 0.445 Exhaust: 60/30 270 0.445 Overlap: 60 107 Intake: 29/54 263 0.440 Exhaust: 53/22 255 0.440 Overlap: 51 108 Intake: 34/65 279 0.485 Exhaust: 66/34 280 0.485 Overlap: 68 109 Intake: 32/50 262 0.440 Exhaust: 58/30 268 0.440 Overlap: 62 111 Intake: 35/54 269 0.575 Exhaust: 62/32 274 0.575 Overlap: 67 112 Intake: 28/45 253 0.440 Exhaust: 53/25 258 0.440 Overlap: 53 115 Intake: 32/50 262 0.440 Exhaust: 52/28 260 0.515 Overlap: 60 116 Intake: 30/55 265 0.400 Exhaust: 54/26 260 0.400 Overlap: 56 117 Intake: 32/58 270 0.485 Exhaust: 56/29 265 0.485 Overlap: 61