------------------------------ Subject: 34. Safety Riding If you haven't already, take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation Course. If you have, take the experienced course. The MSF can be reached at 800-447-4700. The CHP runs this in California, and can be reached at 800-CC-RIDER. Random Riding Tips: Number one: Don't drink or do drugs and ride. A motorcycle is much more demanding of its pilot than a car. It is surprising how much just a couple of beers can effect ones riding abilities. Number two: Remember, you are invisible and everyone else is out to get you. Number three: Get a good leather motorcycle jacket (thicker and more durable than leather dress jackets), helmet, gloves and boots. The two categories of motorcycle riders are those that have fallen and those that haven't fallen yet. Watch the front wheel of a cage poised to come out of a driveway. It is the first thing that moves. If you cannot avoid hitting a small object, such as a curb, release the brakes immediately before impact. This will allow the forks to extend to do their job while also aiding after-the-fact maneuverability. John Stafford, a dog lover, adds "never swerve to avoid small animals. Almost all dogs who charge your bike are trying to avoid you. It's their herding instinct at work. Besides, you _can_ run over a 100 pound dog without crashing if you stay straight and upright. Cats, smaller dogs, squirrels, skunks are a cinch. Run 'em over. Armadillos Never. ;-) I know too many people who got hurt trying to avoid a small animal. Just run 'em over and live to ride another day." If a dog is coming at you from an angle slow briefly and then accelerate to throw off the dog's "attack angle". When passing watch the cage driver's head, as most will turn their head slightly to look into the mirror before pulling into your lane. Very basic -- learn to use the front brake more than the rear. Because of the weight distribution, it provides 70% of the braking power. Practice emergency stopping in a gravel-clear parking lot. If the rear tire locks, it is doing more harm than good and may try to pass you. "The front brake _typically_ gives 70% of the braking power. That _doesn't_ mean to use it alone, because the remaining 30% is significant. A couple of points to remember - if you squeeze the front brake too quickly, you can get into trouble by (possible) locking up the front wheel. Wait for weight to transfer. A Harley carries its weight lower than many import bikes, so there is not so much weight transfer, so the rear brake can be more effective. Related to that last, in the case of some of the "sport bikes" (street-legal race bikes) the brakes are so good and the weight is so high that in a quick stop the front wheel can be doing over 90% of the work. Practice using both brakes together, try checking how quickly you can stop with either one alone, then check out using both. Also note how you can squeeze harder and harder on the front brake as the front suspension dives." -- the Grouch If you think someone is going to turn left in front of you, they will. This is THE most common motorcycle accident causing significant injuries. My bud has a plate in his head from T-boning a car in this manner. Complete your braking before a turn and start to accelerate midway through. Know your limits and your bike's, and stay on this side of those limits. Use hand signals in heavy traffic in addition to your turn signals to increase your chances of being seen. Drive with your high-beam on during the daytime so that cagers can see you more easily. Ron Shaffer says that "in addition to watching what's going on nearby, you also need to be checking up the road (the farther the better) to spot potential problems (e.g. brake lights coming on) before you're right on top of 'em. Better to act than re-act. Also, I find it's a real good idea to try to stay out of the 'blind spots' of vehicles that are in adjacent lanes. They'll forget about you in a heartbeat (even if they saw you in the first place) & end up cutting you off (or worse)." Ken adds: "[Your] boots should not have leather soles, but good, gripping, oil-resistant rubber or synthetic. Look where you want the bike to go. If you are trying to avoid something, look at the place you want to go rather than at the object. When approaching a potentially dangerous situation [...] it can help to place another vehicle between you and the danger. For example, if you can ride through an intersection in the "shadow" of a car in the next lane, he'll be more visible than you and will also serve as a shield." ------------------------------ Subject: 35. Counter Steering and Eyeball Riding Riding This is a deep subject, but briefly, push the bars to the left (lightly) to go left and to the right to turn right. Practice this (and other emergency procedures) in an empty parking lot free of gravel, grease spots etc. C. John writes: "Want to try something else that you never think of unless you've had an Experienced Rider Course, Try eyeball riding!! You do it most of the time but like a good countersteering rider you don't even think about it. Eyeball steering is just looking at a spot ahead of you and without moving the bars or your bod, but just move your eyeballs to the left or right and watch what happens to the bike. It will go where you are looking. Mix eyeball and countersteering and you will really move the bike around with ease. By practicing both types of riding in a combination you will stay out of trouble. The key is looking far enough ahead. [This] comes from an experienced riders course that every rider should take after a year or two of riding. The course really sharpens your skills. You find out how good you really aren't!!!!!" ------------------------------ Subject: 36. Pack Riding Riding Putt provided this section. A question that is often raised is: "What is the proper way to ride in a pack?". The following information was gathered from a thread on RMH where a group newbie challenged the Old Timers, Bitches (tm) and Assholes (tm) to provide some constructive input on the subject. The information has been distilled and organized and is presented here. Pack Size: A pack can be 4 or more bikes riding together. The larger the pack, the more organization you will require. Organization: A pack can be formally structured, with a road captain, co-captains, crossing guards, a sweep, a chase truck, maps, CB frequencies, even a cop escort. Or it can be just a few friends out for a putt trying to keep out of each other's wheels. Most people prefer the latter. One comment made about tightly organized pack rides was: If I want close-order drill, I'll take an Achie Brakie class. Always designate a road captain, usually a person who knows the route to your destination. The road captain makes decisions on the route -- where to stop, how long to stop -- and also delegates tasks to other riders. When pulling away from a stop, the road captain should accelerate up to speed slowly, to keep the group together and avoid the 'bungee' effect, where those behind the road captain must race to catch up and then brake quickly to maintain position. If you don't have a particular destination, pick one before you start the ride. If the pack has to separate because of a breakdown or other reason, everyone will know the final destination and can catch up. In larger packs, you may designate one or more baby sitters. The number of baby sitters depends on the size of the pack, and is usually one for every ten bikes in the pack. The baby sitters should be 100% legal, including their bike, license, insurance, blood alcohol etc. They may have to deal with the MAN away from the pack. The baby sitters situate themselves at the back of the pack and fall out with anyone that has a problem. The baby sitters also keep problem riders in line, enforcing discipline on the pack. On larger or longer rides, you may want to have a chase vehicle, such as a large van or pick-up truck, with a ramp board, tie downs, extra gas, gas line, spark plugs and wires and some tools to effect minor repairs. If a bike can not be fixed immediately, then load it up, get back on the road and fix it later. If the rider insists on fixing the problem on the spot, you can usually delay 5-10 minutes. After this, if a rider still refuses to load up, leave. Consider it a learning experience. Keep your slowest bikes and riders at the front of the pack. This slows the pack and ensures that everyone gets to the destination at the same time. Most packs have one or two hot rods along for the ride. If they know where they are going, cut them loose and have them meet you at the first stop or the final destination. Not everyone will be able to ride comfortably in a pack, and your goal is the best ride for the pack. You are out for a ride, not a road race. Riding in a pack: How you ride depends on both the road and traffic conditions. On narrow roads, ride single file. Single file spreads the pack out more, and gives each rider use of the entire lane if necessary (such as when riding on a twisty narrow road). Sometimes one side of the lane might be bad, so everyone has to stick to that side, or if it gets real twisty, you might want to vary which side of the lane you are on. A staggered single file is the safest. It gives everyone more room to maneuver if there is a sudden need to avoid a pothole, muffler, road kill, ice, fallen rider etc. Some people like to ride near the berm, others near the center line. Know which you prefer so you can position yourself on the favored side. Always ride in a staggered formation in congested areas. Cagers will see less space between bikes than there really is, and will be less likely to cut between the bikes. This formation gives you a safe stopping distance behind the rider who is in your half of the lane ahead. ALWAYS ride in staggered formation except, perhaps, when moving slowly through city traffic. On highways and interstates, you never know when you might have to swerve around something in the road; if not staggered, you could hit the rider next to you. Two abreast is the formation for parades. Parallel riding is illegal in some states and is dangerous as hell, because you only have half a lane to maneuver in. If someone pulls up beside you, drop back and give him the position. When in a pack, avoid passing. It is a good way to get the pack split up, especially on a super highway when you are within 2 miles of your exit. Never ride beside a side-hack or a trike. Leave them enough space to maneuver. As a pack member, the big one is: don't let the group force you to ride over your head. If you do, then you're not only putting *yourself* at risk, but everyone behind you as well (the domino theory applies). Always maintain the separation and speed that *you* feel most comfortable with. Don't be afraid to drop back or even out of a ride that's pushing your experience or the capabilities of your ride out of that envelope. On the other hand, if the pack is too slow for you, don't be an asshole and lean on everyone else. Do the decent thing -- get out of the group and meet up with them at the next rendezvous if you want. Don't tailgate or try to grab the lead just because you don't like the pace. A safe pack ride accommodates the skill/experience level of the least skilled rider. Riding distance gap: The ideal distance between you and the riders immediately in front and behind you is a 2 second gap. There should also be a 1 second gap between you and the bike staggered to your left or right. The rider directly in front of you should be able to see your headlight or face in his mirror, and you should be able to see the headlight or face of the rider behind you in your mirror. This gives you a comfortable spacing. All this depends on speed, road conditions etc. You want to give the riders around you enough room to maneuver without endangering anyone else or slowing things down. You should always keep an eye on the rider behind you, in case he gets stuck at a traffic light or mired in traffic. Drop back to let the riders in front of you know that there's a problem. If everyone does likewise, this will send a message to the lead rider to slow down and let the pack regroup. Signaling: Always signal when making a move. Hand signals are preferred, because many older bikes do not have signal lights. A good passenger will be able to assist. Make sure that hand signals (slow down, turns, road hazards etc.) are passed from the front of the group to the back. Hand signals are necessary, especially in emergencies. If you have trouble, put your hand up immediately. If you're on the outside, pull over slowly to the shoulder. If you're stuck on the inside, pull to the left with your hand up until the riders behind you back off and let you move to the right and off onto the shoulder. Do not make any sharp moves. If you see a hazard in the road (pothole, dead animal, muffler etc.), point down to it until you've passed it to warn those behind you. Always signal lane changes and turns, either with your turn signal lights, or with hand signals. When slowing, use hand signals to alert those behind you. Some general rules: Pay attention. Check your equipment, e.g. brake lights and stuff. This can avoid break- downs. Pay attention. If you cause a spill because you did something stupid, it could earn you some lumps on top of your road rash. Pay attention. If you think your bike won't make it, drive the truck. You will get just as much experience and have just as much fun getting there. Pay attention. Your eyes should be watching a few bikes up the road from you, not fixed on the bike in front of you. Pay attention. Respect the speed of the pack. If the pace is too slow, pull to the front at the next stop light and inform the ride captain where you will meet up with the rest of the group. Pay attention. Always remember you're in a group. Every move you make affects the others behind you. Pay attention. Problems occur on rides because group members don't know or don't respect group riding rules. Many accidents happen because of inattention. Pay attention. Keep your eyes on the road and on the riders around you. Pay attention. Ride staggered if you do not know who you are riding with or their riding styles! Pay attention. Don't ride too close to the centerline of the road. You don't want to slam mirrors with a pickup coming toward you. Pay attention. Always pass single file. If there is not enough room to pass, don't feel bad about being separated from the pack. Better late to the next stop than early to your grave. Pay attention. A pack is no place for hot dogs. Wait until you are alone or with one or two other hot dogs to play Speed Racer. If the road captain or someone else in the pack criticizes you, take it seriously. Some people will not give you another chance to put their lives in danger with your antics. Pay attention. Remember, there are old bikers and there are bold bikers. The law of natural selection says there are very few old, bold bikers. One-hundred more times is still not enough -- Pay Attention! Many close calls and wrecks could have been avoided if the riders had been more aware of their environment. Pay attention. ------------------------------ Subject: 37. US and Canadian Motorcycle Laws Riding Join ABATE to help the fight for motorcyclist's rights. They can be reached at 800-540-1979 The following table comes from Ivan Gregory's archives. It's three years old, so I would appreciate any newer information that you may have. State/Province Special Helmet Eye Lights on License Law Guards 24 Hours --------------------------------------------------- Alabama No Yes No No --------------------------------------------------- Alaska Yes No(1,11) Yes(13) No --------------------------------------------------- Arizona Yes No(2) Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- California Yes Yes No Yes(8) --------------------------------------------------- Colorado Yes No Yes No --------------------------------------------------- Connecticut Yes No(2,10) Yes(3) No(12) --------------------------------------------------- Delaware Yes No(5,4,1,10) Yes No(12) --------------------------------------------------- Florida Yes Yes Yes Yes --------------------------------------------------- Georgia Yes Yes Yes(3) Yes --------------------------------------------------- Hawaii Yes No(2,4) Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Idaho No No(2) No No --------------------------------------------------- Illinois Yes No Yes Yes --------------------------------------------------- Indiana Yes No(2,10) No(2,10) Yes --------------------------------------------------- Iowa Yes No No Yes(6) --------------------------------------------------- Kansas Yes No(2) Yes(3) Yes(8) --------------------------------------------------- Kentucky Yes Yes Yes No --------------------------------------------------- Louisiana Yes Yes Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Maine Yes No(14) No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Maryland Yes Yes Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Massachusetts Yes Yes Yes(3) Yes --------------------------------------------------- Michigan Yes Yes Yes(7,3) No --------------------------------------------------- Minnesota Yes No(2,10) Yes(3) Yes (eyewear required as of July 1, 1995) --------------------------------------------------- Mississippi Yes Yes No No --------------------------------------------------- Missouri Yes Yes No No --------------------------------------------------- Montana Yes No(2) No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Nebraska Yes Yes No No --------------------------------------------------- Nevada Yes Yes Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- New Hampshire Yes No(2) Yes No --------------------------------------------------- New Jersey Yes Yes(4) Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- New Mexico Yes No(2,4) Yes No --------------------------------------------------- New York Yes Yes(4) Yes Yes --------------------------------------------------- North Carolina Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- North Dakota Yes No(2,4) No No --------------------------------------------------- Ohio Yes No(2) Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Oklahoma No No (2) Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Oregon Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Pennsylvania Yes Yes Yes No --------------------------------------------------- Rhode Island Yes No(11) Yes No --------------------------------------------------- South Carolina Yes No(9,4) No(9,3) Yes --------------------------------------------------- South Dakota Yes No(2) Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Tennessee Yes Yes Yes(3) Yes --------------------------------------------------- Texas Yes Yes(4) No No --------------------------------------------------- Utah Yes No(2) No No --------------------------------------------------- Vermont Yes Yes(4) Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Virginia Yes Yes Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Washington Yes Yes Yes(3) Yes --------------------------------------------------- West Virginia Yes Yes(4) Yes Yes --------------------------------------------------- Wisconsin Yes No(2,10) Yes(13) Yes --------------------------------------------------- Wyoming Yes No(1) No Yes --------------------------------------------------- D.C. Yes Yes Yes No --------------------------------------------------- Alberta Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- British Columbia Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Manitoba Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- New Brunswick Yes Yes No No --------------------------------------------------- NW Territories Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Nova Scotia Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Ontario Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- P. Edward Isle. Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Quebec Yes Yes No Yes --------------------------------------------------- Saskatchewan Yes Yes Yes(3) No --------------------------------------------------- Yukon Yes Yes No No --------------------------------------------------- Notes: 1. Required under age 19 2. Required under age 18. 3. Required unless equipped with windscreen. 4. Reflector required. 5. Must have in possession. 6. Required for 1977 or newer bikes. 7. Required at speeds over 35 m.p.h. 8. Required for 1978 or newer bikes. 9. Required under age 21. 10. Required for instructional permit holders. 11. required for passengers. 12. Required for 1980 or newer bikes. 13. Required unless windscreen is 15 inches above handlebars. 14. Required under age 15-1/2. Ivan Gregory suggests: "Call 1-800-4bikers. Ask them to send you the Pocket Guide for Helmet Facts." ------------------------------ Subject: 38. Biking in Europe Riding Tony Fletcher contributed the following section: "There is a thriving Harley scene in the UK (and Europe). First stop will be the UKs largest and oldest Harley dealer (since 1924), Warrs of Chelsea in London (tel.: +44 171 736 2934 fax: +44 384 1440). They also organise the local HOG chapter. In addition there are 15 other official Harley Dealers across the UK and one in Eire. In 1994 nearly 1400 new Harleys were registered in the UK. The official UK HD Insurance scheme is run by Fernet Insurance (tel. +44 1 708 768613 fax + 44 1708 732395) who are very helpful. For touring in Europe contact HOG in Germany on tel.: +496105 25390 fax:+49 6105284255. To get the UK HOG newsletter contact UK HOG at: Bell Tower, high Street, Brackley Northants NN13 7DT, UK tel.: +44 1280 700101. The London HOG meets last Thursday of every month at the Hard Rock Cafe on Piccadilly (free beer, we are a tourist attraction, bring your HOG card). Upwards of 150 bikes in summer. There is also a big UK Rally each year in the Summer. Some tips: We drive on the left in the UK so you have to get the bikes steering changed (but on the right in the rest of Europe. Bikes are between 40 percent (Sportsters) and 25 percent (Big Twins) more expensive in the UK than the US. They are even more expensive in other European markets. You need to sort out insurance cover if you are going to drive in more than one European country as although UK insurance is legal in Europe it only covers you third party. Some countries require a bail bond (e.g. Spain). Helmets are mandatory in all countries, most have a speed limit of between 70 m.p.h. and 80 m.p.h. except some German Autobahns, where you can go as fast as your underpants will allow. If you want to buy a second hand HD then check out the classified adverts in Motorcycle News (out every Wednesday - at least 30 or so every week). To find out about motorcycling in general in the UK then you can subscribe to the Email forum OGRI (ADMIN ADDRESS: ogri-request@Nottingham.ac.uk TO SUBSCRIBE INCLUDE YOUR E-MAIL ADDRESS)."