valve adjustment

[Jay Loeppke]

  Brings up a another question.  How do I measure or tell that the  
Cam chain has proper tension. It looks stock to me.  At a quick  
glance the Service manual doesn't tell how to measure this.
On Jan 13, 2007, at 9:15 PM, Steve Northrop wrote:

> You can end up skipping a tooth on the cam sprockets because all  
> the slack in the cam chain will move to the non-tensioned side of  
> the chain. If the wonderful adjuster we are discussing as is not up  
> to par, there could be considerable slack and the chain could skip  
> a tooth, messing up your cam timing terribly.
>
> Steve in Western NY
> '96 GPZ1100
> '02 Daytona 955i
> "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Dave Daniels
>   To: Steve Northrop ; GPZ LIST
>   Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 10:04 PM
>   Subject: Re: valve adjustment
>
>
>   Steve,
>   What's the consequence of rotating the engine clockwise (backward) ?
>
>   Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
>     When I set my valves, I use the second method you describe,  
> Jay. It's
>     important that the rocker arm be on the base circle of the cam  
> to get
>     accurate clearances. I agree with you that a couple of the  
> rockers look
>     awful close to being on part of the lobe when using the "2  
> position" method.
>     I turn the engine so the cam lobes on the pair I want to check  
> are opposite
>     the rockers. Then I know for sure I'm on the base circle of the  
> cam before
>     clearance checking. Using this method also allows me to do all  
> the intakes
>     then all the exhausts instead of hopscotching around the  
> cylinder head. It
>     may take a few minutes more but your valve clearances will be  
> more exact.
>     Just remember to always turn the motor forward (counter- 
> clockwise as you
>     look at the engine from the timing cover side). If you  
> overshoot, go around
>     again, don't back it up. And don't forget to take the rag out  
> of the cam
>     chain tunnel opening before putting the valve cover back on. I  
> forgot once,
>     it wasn't pretty.
>
>     Steve in Western NY
>     '96 GPZ1100
>     '02 Daytona 955i
>     "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: "Jay Loeppke"
>     To: "GPZ LIST"
>     Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:54 PM
>     Subject: valve adjustment
>
>
>> Another question for all you helpful GPZ owners out there, (You  
>> helped me
>> through the carbs last time). I'am checking my valve clearance,  
>> between
>> the helpful chart, instuctions found on the GPZ list and my service
>> manual its going pretty good. I am a little puzzeled though at one
>> point. I am sure I found TDC for the two position to check all  
>> valves.
>> the problems lies with the #4 cylinder exhaust valves and #2 intake
>> valves, the positon of the cam lobes do not look like there in the  
>> right
>> positon and there is no clearance at theses points. Every other point
>> makes sense. Other than #2 intake valves, all the rest are in  
>> tolerance.
>> all the Exhaust valves are a "little" tight (.05-.07mm) with the
>> exception of #4 which is zero. So I decided to check another way, and
>> that is by putting the point of the cam lobe 180 degrees away from  
>> the
>> basket. I checked all this way. All the measurements were the same
>> except for the #2 intake (0 clearance before) now falls within  
>> tolerances
>> like the rest, and the # 4 exhaust vales are a "little" tight like  
>> the
>> rest also. What should I go by. Once I decide I will pull the needed
>> shims.
>> This bike has 35k and I do not know the history of the so I'am
>> going through the bike.
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> Jay
>
>
>