valve adjustment

[Steve Northrop]

It would start, but not easily and it would run, but not well.

Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dave Daniels 
  To: Steve Northrop ; GPZ LIST 
  Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 10:22 PM
  Subject: Re: valve adjustment


  If that were to happen, there would be trouble starting the bike I assume?

  Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote: 
    You can end up skipping a tooth on the cam sprockets because all the slack in the cam chain will move to the non-tensioned side of the chain. If the wonderful adjuster we are discussing as is not up to par, there could be considerable slack and the chain could skip a tooth, messing up your cam timing terribly.

    Steve in Western NY
    '96 GPZ1100
    '02 Daytona 955i
    "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Dave Daniels 
    To: Steve Northrop ; GPZ LIST 
    Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 10:04 PM
    Subject: Re: valve adjustment


    Steve,
    What's the consequence of rotating the engine clockwise (backward) ?

    Steve Northrop wrote:
    When I set my valves, I use the second method you describe, Jay. It's 
    important that the rocker arm be on the base circle of the cam to get 
    accurate clearances. I agree with you that a couple of the rockers look 
    awful close to being on part of the lobe when using the "2 position" method. 
    I turn the engine so the cam lobes on the pair I want to check are opposite 
    the rockers. Then I know for sure I'm on the base circle of the cam before 
    clearance checking. Using this method also allows me to do all the intakes 
    then all the exhausts instead of hopscotching around the cylinder head. It 
    may take a few minutes more but your valve clearances will be more exact. 
    Just remember to always turn the motor forward (counter-clockwise as you 
    look at the engine from the timing cover side). If you overshoot, go around 
    again, don't back it up. And don't forget to take the rag out of the cam 
    chain tunnel opening before putting the valve cover back on. I forgot once, 
    it wasn't pretty.

    Steve in Western NY
    '96 GPZ1100
    '02 Daytona 955i
    "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White

    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: "Jay Loeppke" 
    To: "GPZ LIST" 
    Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:54 PM
    Subject: valve adjustment


    > Another question for all you helpful GPZ owners out there, (You helped me 
    > through the carbs last time). I'am checking my valve clearance, between 
    > the helpful chart, instuctions found on the GPZ list and my service 
    > manual its going pretty good. I am a little puzzeled though at one 
    > point. I am sure I found TDC for the two position to check all valves. 
    > the problems lies with the #4 cylinder exhaust valves and #2 intake 
    > valves, the positon of the cam lobes do not look like there in the right 
    > positon and there is no clearance at theses points. Every other point 
    > makes sense. Other than #2 intake valves, all the rest are in tolerance. 
    > all the Exhaust valves are a "little" tight (.05-.07mm) with the 
    > exception of #4 which is zero. So I decided to check another way, and 
    > that is by putting the point of the cam lobe 180 degrees away from the 
    > basket. I checked all this way. All the measurements were the same 
    > except for the #2 intake (0 clearance before) now falls within tolerances 
    > like the rest, and the # 4 exhaust vales are a "little" tight like the 
    > rest also. What should I go by. Once I decide I will pull the needed 
    > shims.
    > This bike has 35k and I do not know the history of the so I'am 
    > going through the bike.
    >
    > thanks,
    >
    > Jay