I'd rather be riding

[Robinson, Art (ON15)]

Thank, Dave.

Do I get from your message that I don't have to completely remove the
radiator, but rather just disconnect the top hoses and swing it out of
the way?

Art TO

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Daniels [mailto:dwaynedaniels at sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 8:20 AM
To: Robinson, Art (ON15); gpzlist at micapeak.com
Subject: RE: I'd rather be riding

You don't have to drain the oil. But, you will have to drain at least
some of the coolant because you will have to move the radiator out a bit
to get the pipes free. In the process of doing that, you could lose some
coolant. It's not that difficult to drain and refill the coolant...or
the oil for that matter. In my experience, I would recommend at least
draining the coolant.

"Robinson, Art (ON15)" <art.robinson at honeywell.com> wrote:  All good
stuff! I use a long Allen wrench which I hook inside the boots
to help them over the connections on the cylinder head.

Art in TO

I'm just in the process of changing my exhaust system. Do you really
have to drain oil and coolant or is there a work around? Any help out
there would be appreciated.

Thanks!

-----Original Message-----
From: James Keefover [mailto:jkeefover at swansonindustries.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 8:05 AM
To: gpzlist at micapeak.com
Subject: RE: I'd rather be riding

I don't have much to offer but I have been through this a couple of
months
ago and I sympathize. A couple things.. It's really hard to do with
one
set of hands (my hands anyway), have someone help from the other side.
Put
a film of oil on the mating surfaces of the boots and carbs so they
slide
into each other more easily (there's probably something better to use
than
oil). Don't slide the carbs down the boots on the engine side as far as
they will go, it's hard to get the airbox boot on after that. Don't
tighten
anything until everything is in place. And finally if you have a tool
to
reach down in between the middle carbs to "unfold" the boots where they
flop
over it helps. A long flat screwdriver with the end bent 90 degrees
works.

James

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill M. [mailto:willm97 at znet.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 1:43 AM
To: GPzList
Subject: I'd rather be riding

Fellow Motorcycle Enthusiasts

I haven't been riding too much lately, but when I did the bike just
refused 
to idle properly.
Well it got so bad that the bike would just die at idle. It ran really
great

otherwise.

I figured that my lack of riding had let the gas clog up the passages in
the

idle circuit.
Based on others accounts I got some of this Seafoam stuff to hopefully
clean

them out.
Well, you can probably guess that since I am writing this it didn't
work.

So I checked into cost of having someone other than me clean them. $300 
seemed way
more than reasonable. So right now I have on my bench what I hoped I
would 
never see there-
all my carbs.

Prior to pulling them I drained the bowls into a jar. There were little 
silvery flakes in the gas.
I do have a filter in the line.
I pulled the top and bottom from one of the carbs and everything really 
looks pretty clean.
No sticky varnish like I expected. The vacuum diaphram looks OK. The
pilot 
jet's tiny central
hole was a little dirty, but not plugged.

So here's the plan- I hope to not have to disassemble the whole
assembly.
I am going to pull out the jets and diaphrams and blow carb cleaner
through 
all of the passages
and make sure everything is clear. I think this will fix the problem.

Then the part I am dreading- putting the carbs back in. It was a royal
pain 
getting them out.
Any advice before I start (and have to resort to saying bad words and 
stomping around)?
I'm most worried about getting the aircleaner boots back on properly.

SoCal Bill
95 not-so-fast at the moment GPZ