She no go
pedmail at dbmail.dk
Thu Jan 17 14:41:48 PST 2008
You're just right, Steve - I forgot this (important) one. In fact I did
mine last winter.
I did the ignition switch while doing the front forks at the same time.
It made access to the switch much easier. I don't think it's necessary
to take off the front forks, but at least you'll need to remove the
fairing and the speedo housing. The switch is mounted with two tamper
proof screws that may be accessed from below. If I remember right they
are torx screws with a little dot in the middle that will prevent you
from getting the torx bit into place. Carefully flatten the little dot
with a drift or something (not sure if this word "drift" is the right
one) so you can get the torx bit into the head of the screw. After
having removed the two screws the electrical part of the ignition switch
may be pulled out (the key lock remains in place). Carefully disassemble
the unit using a screw driver while taking care not brake any plastic or
to drop anything on the floor - there are several small springs and
contacts inside. You'll be surprised to see how simple it is (probably
made in China :-) ). Check if the contact surfaces are burnt or dirty,
clean them and sparsely add a little contact spray. Assemble the whole
thing and put it back into place. It's not a difficult operation but one
that requires plenty of time and a careful hand.
'96 "Black Stealth" GPZ
Steve Northrop skrev:
> If you smell gas, I'm guessing it's ignition as well. Everything Ped
> said +1. Additionally, the ignition switch isn't the greatest piece of
> electrical hardware either. Whenever mine keeps spinning past when I
> expect it to start, I cycle the ignition switch and it starts every time.
More information about the GPZList