She no go

Ped pedmail at
Thu Jan 17 14:41:48 PST 2008

You're just right, Steve - I forgot this (important) one. In fact I did 
mine last winter.

I did the ignition switch while doing the front forks at the same time. 
It made access to the switch much easier. I don't think it's necessary 
to take off the front forks, but at least you'll need to remove the 
fairing and the speedo housing. The switch is mounted with two tamper 
proof screws that may be accessed from below. If I remember right they 
are torx screws with a little dot in the middle that will prevent you 
from getting the torx bit into place. Carefully flatten the little dot 
with a drift or something (not sure if this word "drift" is the right 
one) so you can get the torx bit into the head of the screw. After 
having removed the two screws the electrical part of the ignition switch 
may be pulled out (the key lock remains in place). Carefully disassemble 
the unit using a screw driver while taking care not brake any plastic or 
to drop anything on the floor - there are several small springs and 
contacts inside. You'll be surprised to see how simple it is (probably 
made in China :-) ). Check if the contact surfaces are burnt or dirty, 
clean them and sparsely add a little contact spray. Assemble the whole 
thing and put it back into place. It's not a difficult operation but one 
that requires plenty of time and a careful hand.

'96 "Black Stealth" GPZ

Steve Northrop skrev:
> If you smell gas, I'm guessing it's ignition as well. Everything Ped 
> said +1. Additionally, the ignition switch isn't the greatest piece of 
> electrical hardware either. Whenever mine keeps spinning past when I 
> expect it to start, I cycle the ignition switch and it starts every time.

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