carb take 2
Jonathon Jay
annihilator1100 at hotmail.com
Thu May 14 23:03:27 PDT 2009
Yeah, they supplied a sheet metal screw and a drill bit. but the bit is 5/32" and the instructions say nothing of drilling slides.
Any thoughts on the little bit of play?
Regards-
J
What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~
> From: johnsoliday at msn.com
> To: annihilator1100 at hotmail.com; andyburkard at yahoo.com; gpzlist at micapeak.com; blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> Subject: RE: carb take 2
> Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 23:54:46 -0600
>
> Interesting, the only bits that came in the two kits I bought were for
> drilling the slides.... I use a very small drill bit to punch through the
> pilot caps and then use a sheet metal screw to pull them out.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com [mailto:gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com] On
> Behalf Of Jonathon Jay
> Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:48 PM
> To: johnsoliday at msn.com; andyburkard at yahoo.com; Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion;
> blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> Subject: RE: carb take 2
>
>
> The DJ kit came with a 5/32 drill bit, but this is a large bit and used to
> make a pilot hole to pull those plugs out.
>
>
>
> I know I have a lot of questions, but this is my first time doing a jet kit.
> I am just soaking the carbs overnight and reassembling tomorrow.
>
> DJ supplies 4 clips and 8 washers. Per their instructions, I'm putting the
> clip on the second from the top groove with 2 washers over it.
>
> Then I put the needle in the rubber cup.
>
> Then the white cup thing with the feet over it goes over the end of the
> needle.
>
> Once it is all together it seems as if there is a bit too much free play in
> the needle. Is this ok?
>
>
>
> Regards-
>
> J
>
> What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
> ~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~
>
>
>
>
> > From: johnsoliday at msn.com
> > To: annihilator1100 at hotmail.com; andyburkard at yahoo.com;
> gpzlist at micapeak.com; blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > Subject: RE: carb take 2
> > Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:49:40 -0600
> >
> > Some DJ kits supply a drill and you enlarge the air bleed hole in the
> slide
> > by drilling it through with the slightly larger drill bit. I believe this
> > makes the slides move upward faster for quicker throttle response as
> vacuum
> > is what pulls the slides up, not your throttle hand. Maybe that's only in
> > the stage 3 kit (I dunno as my bike is bone stock with all the CA air
> > pollution stuff). My DJ stage 3 kit for an FJ1100 came with the drill bit.
> > The air box holes are for crankcase gases to get returned to the engine
> and
> > burnt. You can probably block them off or leave them open probably won't
> > make a difference.
> >
> > Have Fun, remember it's a hobby ;-)
> >
> > John
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com [mailto:gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of Jonathon Jay
> > Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:51 PM
> > To: andyburkard at yahoo.com; Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion;
> > blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > Subject: RE: carb take 2
> >
> >
> > Well, I figured out what you meant by clips...on the needle. I'm following
> > the DJ instructions by using the 108 mains and clip in second position. I
> AM
> > NOT using their supplied springs.
> >
> > I drilled out the plugs, now just to clean the insides and re-assemble.
> >
> >
> >
> > 1.
> >
> > I was recently told to drill the slides? DJ makes no mention of this, what
> > did y'all mean by drilling the slides? DJ doesn't mention it, so what will
> > happen if I don't?
> >
> >
> >
> > 2.
> >
> > Also, I did the reed block off plates. My airbox has 3 holes for hoses.
> > Should I plug them all, do I leave some open? Details, please.
> >
> > Regards-
> >
> > J
> >
> > What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
> > ~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 11:26:22 -0700
> > > From: andyburkard at yahoo.com
> > > Subject: Re: carb take 2
> > > To: gpzlist at micapeak.com; blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > >
> > >
> > > What Steve said...
> > >
> > > Um, Jon, hate to say this but if you're asking questions like "what's a
> > shim, clip, 108..." you may want to get some help.
> > >
> > > it's really not hard to do, but it is tedious. The key is what Steve
> said
> > at the end - every bike is different and what worked for me may not for
> your
> > in terms of jet sizes, where to put shims, etc.
> > >
> > > what i described worked wonderfully for me, and the nice thing about the
> > dynojet kit is that it comes with a free dyno run coupon which can help
> dial
> > in where Steve is saying take it out and ride in those RPM ranges. call
> your
> > local dealers and ask them if they'll take the coupon, or i think there
> may
> > even be a link on the coupon for participating dealers in your area.
> > >
> > > I had my carbs on and off 4 or 5 times, and did about 3 dyno runs in all
> > before i had mine dialed in. yes, keeping the stock air box does make this
> > process a total PITA, but once you're done, you'll be done. patience,
> > grasshopper...
> > >
> > > have fun!
> > > andy b
> > >
> > > --- On Wed, 5/13/09, Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > From: Steve Northrop <blackgpz at rochester.rr.com>
> > > > Subject: Re: carb take 2
> > > > To: "Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion" <gpzlist at micapeak.com>
> > > > Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2009, 6:01 PM
> > > > The main jets have the number stamped
> > > > on them. The clips are the little e-clips included in the
> > > > kit, the shims are the little washers included in the kit.
> > > > Yes the bike will run well with the stock diaphragm springs
> > > > and the Dynojet parts. You can adjust the pilot screws
> > > > without removing the carbs. If you need to make a needle or
> > > > mainjet change, the carbs should be removed. Do not use an
> > > > adhesive on the diaphragms. You can use a little Vaseline to
> > > > hold the edges in before you replace the carb top.
> > > >
> > > > Steve in Western NY
> > > > '96 GPZ1100
> > > > '08 KLR 650
> > > > '08 Tuono Factory
> > > > "You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Jonathon Jay
> > > > To: blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > > > ; Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 8:16 PM
> > > > Subject: RE: carb take 2
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ok, now a couple questions.
> > > > I wouln't know a 108 main if it bit me in the ass.
> > > > Same for this talk of clip and shim.
> > > > What I have is what was included in my DJ kit.
> > > > As long as I use my stock springs can I make it run
> > > > well with the DJ supplied parts?
> > > >
> > > > Will I have to remove carbs every time I make
> > > > adjustments?
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, I am cleaning the carbs too. I very
> > > > carefully pulled the rubber diaphrams out, they're about the
> > > > circumfrence of a lime and the needle goes in the middle.
> > > > There appeared to be some mild adhesive helding them in.
> > > > When it is time to reinstall, what do I use for adhesive?
> > > >
> > > > Regards-
> > > >
> > > > J
> > > >
> > > > What's The Difference Between Ignorance And Apathy?
> > > > ~ I Don't Know And I Don't Care ~
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > From: blackgpz at rochester.rr.com
> > > > > To: gpzlist at micapeak.com
> > > > > Subject: Re: carb take 2
> > > > > Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:04:23 -0400
> > > > >
> > > > > >>Don't screw around with the pilot
> > > > screws if it idled right before you
> > > > > >>put the kit in. All the screws do is
> > > > affect mixture up to about 1200 rpm
> > > > > >>or so.
> > > > >
> > > > > This is not correct. The pilot screws affect
> > > > air:fuel up to about 4000 rpm
> > > > > so it is important to get these right for good
> > > > part-throttle cruise. You
> > > > > must have the ability to adjust them so remove
> > > > the plugs covering them as
> > > > > outlined in the jet kit.
> > > > > My recommendation FWIW:
> > > > > Install 108 main jets (as you have an
> > > > aftermarket exhaust, particularly the
> > > > > large headpipe SS2r)
> > > > > Do not change the pilot jets if you are keeping
> > > > the stock airbox.
> > > > > Set the pilot screws at 2 1/2 turns out from
> > > > lightly bottomed. Your
> > > > > adjustment range is 1 turn to 4 turns out. 2
> > > > 1/2 turns out is the middle of
> > > > > the range and a good starting point.
> > > > > Drill the slides - be careful.
> > > > > Put an e-clip in the second groove from the top
> > > > of each needle. Put a shim
> > > > > washer on top of that, then put another e-clip
> > > > in the first groove to retain
> > > > > the shim washer. This clip-shim-clip
> > > > arrangement duplicates the thickness of
> > > > > the "nailhead" of the stock needle so there
> > > > will be no up & down play of the
> > > > > needle in the slide when you put the white
> > > > plastic retainer over it. Make
> > > > > sure none of the "feet" of the white plastic
> > > > retainer cover the slide lift
> > > > > hole.
> > > > > DO NOT install the kit supplied diaphragm
> > > > springs. Reinstall the stock ones.
> > > > > Put it back together and fire it up.
> > > > > There are 3 circuits in the carburetor. The
> > > > main jet is used in the 7000 to
> > > > > redline RPM range, the needle controls the
> > > > 4000-7000 rpm range and the pilot
> > > > > screw from idle to about 4000 rpm. This is
> > > > simplified a bit as there is some
> > > > > overlap but for adjustment purposes, these are
> > > > ranges each have the most
> > > > > effect on.
> > > > > Start with the main jet. You must get this one
> > > > right first. Take it out and
> > > > > run it in the 7000 and up range. I know it's
> > > > hard because of the speed
> > > > > involved but what you are looking for is good
> > > > throttle response, it pulls
> > > > > hard and none to maybe a little blue smoke.
> > > > > Next is the needle. Again, run it in the
> > > > 4000-7000 rpm range. Again you are
> > > > > looking for good throttle response, pulls hard
> > > > and makes a good transition
> > > > > through 7000 rpm.
> > > > > Last is the pilot screws. What you are striving
> > > > for is smooth running at a
> > > > > steady 4000 rpm in second gear. If it runs
> > > > smooth from the git-go, turn the
> > > > > screws in a half turn at a time until it begins
> > > > to surge and buck, then back
> > > > > them out a half turn so you have the leanest
> > > > setting the bike runs smoothly
> > > > > at. If it surges from the start, back the
> > > > screws out a half turn at a time
> > > > > until it just goes away.
> > > > > Everybody's bike is different and some
> > > > adjustments may need to be made to
> > > > > tune your particular bike. The above is a good
> > > > starting point.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
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