Update on Header and Jetting

John Soliday johnsoliday at msn.com
Mon Apr 19 10:47:02 PDT 2010

PS: How did you know my knuckles are all cut up ;-)

-----Original Message-----
From: gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com [mailto:gpzlist-bounces at micapeak.com] On
Behalf Of andy burkard
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:39 AM
To: GPZ List
Subject: Re: Update on Header and Jetting

may want to check with scapps, but i got rid of the dynojet springs and
stayed with the stock springs.  worked way better.  the set up i had was:
stock air box and filter
stock springs
104 main jet, clip in 2nd position with 1 shim under and 2 over the clip (i
think the shims were 1/2 the clip setting distance)
#38 pilot jets
something in the 3-4 turn range on the pesky little screw needles. 

base-camp is 800 feet, and most riding in the sierras is in 2-7k foot range,
all of which was fine with the above settings.

my bet would be to go back to stock springs, plus 104 main and clip where
you have it and try that.

you'll get better at pulling carbs on / off...  take pictures of your
knuckles now so you remember what they look like when they heal up again...

andy b

--- On Mon, 4/19/10, John Soliday <johnsoliday at msn.com> wrote:

> From: John Soliday <johnsoliday at msn.com>
> Subject: Update on Header and Jetting
> To: "'GPZ List'" <gpzlist at micapeak.com>
> Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 8:58 AM
> So I have to make a phone call to
> dynojet today because the jet kit didn't
> work at all with the Jarding 4:1 Header.  Now recall I
> live at ~ 5400' above
> sea level so all jetting that works for sea level is off
> the table up here.
> So I installed the header and as a good engineer decided to
> "baseline" it
> with the stock jetting.  It ran fairly well which was
> to be expected if the
> bike's stock jetting was "lean" from the factory, then it's
> a bit "rich" up
> here due to the lack of O2.  Therefore, one would
> expect the "rich" jetting
> to work fairly well with a pipe which it did.  The
> only thing I noticed was
> a slight hesitation when rolling on the throttle a bit of
> surging at steady
> speeds so I figure it's a bit lean from those
> symptoms.  So I decided to put
> leaner of the two dynojet options into the bike, noting
> that this is not a
> high altitude kit.
> So as is to be expected getting the carbs out is always a
> pain, actually
> it's harder to get them back in than out, but I had all of
> Sunday to do it,
> and had finished my coffee for the day and had a cold one
> handy.  While I
> was at it, I took all the evaporative emissions crap off as
> it was in the
> way.  Maybe I'll block off the air injection system
> next time.
> Once the bike was back together sans bodywork, it started
> right up and idled
> just fine, the rest of it's running is horrible!  If
> you yank the throttle
> while in neutral, the engine will die.  I could ride
> it by slipping the
> clutch and feathering the throttle to get the revs up but
> it wouldn't pull
> at all off of 1st gear!  I rode it around a loop and
> was truly a hazard to
> myself and other's as I wanted to warm it up to make sure
> of it's operation.
> So the question is, rich or lean???  I'm betting I'm
> way to rich now, given
> the stock jetting is supposed to be leaner than a dynojet
> kit.  If that is
> the case, the jets supplied by dynojet probably are
> worthless, but I hope
> the needles and replacement springs are OK.  Dynojet
> had told me to get some
> 100 main jets (vs. the 104 and 108 in the kit, and 110
> stock) and drop the
> needle to the first clip (thus no more adjustment range if
> I need to lean it
> further!  I suspect when I call them, that's what they
> are going to tell me
> to do, seems pretty small in the main and it seems to me if
> it won't rev in
> neutral, that one clip adjustment isn't going to cut it but
> I'm older and
> wiser and not in a hurry as I have the KLR to ride in the
> mean time.
> More updates soon, and maybe I'll change that shifter shaft
> seal while I'm
> at it.
> Cheers,
> John  


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